Skirt and dressA skirt is a tube- or cone-shaped garment which hangs from the waist and covers all or part of the legs. Unlike trousers, a skirt is "unbifurcated" — that is, not divided into separate legs. A dress (also frock, gown) is a garment consisting of a skirt with an attached bodice or with a matching bodice giving the effect of a one-piece garment. Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres depicts the Countesse d'Haussonville, wearing a dress.In Western culture, skirts and dresses are usually considered women's clothing. However, there are exceptions. The kilt is considered a traditional men's garment in Scotland, and is growing in fashion in other parts of the world.[1] Additionally, garments which are identified as skirts are being proposed as men's clothing by some of the trendier fashion houses such as Jean-Paul Gaultier. [2] At its simplest, a skirt can be a draped garment made out of a single piece of material (such as sarongs or pareos), but most skirts are fitted to the body at the waist and fuller below, with the fullness introduced by means of darts, gores, pleats, or panels. Modern skirts and dresses are usually made of light to mid-weight fabrics, such as denim, jersey, worsted, or poplin. Skirts and dresses of thin or clingy fabrics are worn with slips to make the material of the skirt drape better. The hemline of skirts and dresses can be as high as the upper thigh or as low as the ground, depending on the whims of fashion and the modesty or personal taste of the wearer. Some medieval upper-class women wore skirts over 3 metres in diameter at the bottom. At the other extreme, the miniskirts of the 1960s were minimal garments that may barely cover the underwear when seated. Dresses and skirts in the 19th centuryDuring the nineteenth century, the cut of women's dresses in western culture varied more widely than in any other century. Waistlines started just below the bust and gradually sank to the natural waist. Skirts started fairly narrow and increased dramatically to the hoopskirt and crinoline-supported styles of the 1860s; then fullness was draped and drawn to the back by means of bustles. Dresses were generally one-piece garments from 1800 through the 1840s; after that it became common for a dress to be made as a separate skirt and bodice, and many dresses had a "day" bodice with a high neckline and long sleeves, and an "evening" bodice with a low neckline (decollete) and very short sleeves. Throughout this period, the length of fashionable dresses varied only slightly, between ankle-length and floor-sweeping. Dresses and skirts in the 20th and 21st centuriesDress of the mid-1920s: Ad by René Lelong.Beginning around 1915, hemlines for daytime dresses left the floor for good. For the next fifty years, fashionable skirts became short (1920s), then long (1930s), then shorter (the War Years with their restrictions on fabric), then long (the New Look), then shortest of all during the 1960s, when skirts became as short as possible while avoiding exposure of underwear, which is considered taboo. Since the 1970s and the rise of pants as an option for all but the most formal of occasions, no one skirt length has dominated fashion for long, with short and ankle-length styles often appearing side-by-side in fashion magazines and catalogs. Styles of dresses and skirts of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries include: DressesBasic shapes:
Fads and fashions:
SkirtsBasic shapes:
Fads and fashions:
How skirts and dresses are worn todayIn Europe and America skirts and dresses can be worn by females of all ages when they are not wearing pants. A skirt may be worn as part of a suit. Skirts or dresses are the garments of choice for many women in formal situations, such as weddings and geopolitical summits. In cold climates, girls and women may wear trousers for warmth, with dresses on top to mark their femininity. In traditional societies, such as in many countries in Africa, the Middle East and Central and South America, it is considered inappropriate for girls and women to wear trousers rather than a skirt or dress. A disadvantage of skirts and dresses that contributes to many girls and women preferring trousers and shorts is that they may be either too long and therefore limit freedom of movement such as when climbing ladders, or too short, in which case one, because of modesty will need to take the trouble when sitting down, such as crossing legs, to avoid exposure of the underwear. Dresses however can be cooler and less confining than many trouser styles, and they are still very popular for special occasions such as proms or weddings. Men in skirtsSkirts, dresses, and their like are still considered primarily women's garments in many parts of the world, and the wearing of them by men is sometimes considered cross-dressing. Exceptions include:
There are two recent movements to legitimize the wearing of unbifurcated garments by men in Western society. One is an effort by companies such as Utilikilt to sell and promote a line of "masculine" unbifurcated garments. They are called kilts, but have several differences from the traditional Scottish kilt. The other is an effort by certain fashion houses such as Jean-Paul Gaultier to increase public awareness that unbifurcated garments such as skirts and dresses are only recently and only regionally considered solely a women's garment. Their main exhibition was the Bravehearts: Men in Skirts exhibit (Nov 2003 to Feb 2004) at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City.[3] UnderwearSkirts and dresses are, like other outer clothing, usually worn with underwear. Wearing no underwear may have a sexual connotation, playing with the boundaries of modesty, motivated by mild exhibitionism. Also, often the kilt is worn without underwear; the uniforms of several Scottish military regiments mandate wearing no underwear with the kilt except at specified occasions. This page about Skirt includes information from a Wikipedia article. Additional articles about Skirt News stories about Skirt External links for Skirt Videos for Skirt Wikis about Skirt Discussion Groups about Skirt Blogs about Skirt Images of Skirt |
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Also, often the kilt is worn without underwear; the uniforms of several Scottish military regiments mandate wearing no underwear with the kilt except at specified occasions. Anheuser-Busch, Inc., a mainstream brewer of popular beers, including Bud Lite, now sponsors the Folsom Street Fair and Diesel brand Jeans runs ads in major fashion magazines with an S&M theme. Wearing no underwear may have a sexual connotation, playing with the boundaries of modesty, motivated by mild exhibitionism. Sadomasochism has also become a popular theme for advertisers who seek to appear "edgy" or unconventional. Skirts and dresses are, like other outer clothing, usually worn with underwear. As of 2005, sadomasochistic themes are common in mainstream erotic fiction, to the point of cliché. Their main exhibition was the Bravehearts: Men in Skirts exhibit (Nov 2003 to Feb 2004) at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City.[3]. A 2002 movie, Secretary, directed by Steven Shainberg, explores the relationship between a masochistic secretary and her dominant, sadistic employer. The other is an effort by certain fashion houses such as Jean-Paul Gaultier to increase public awareness that unbifurcated garments such as skirts and dresses are only recently and only regionally considered solely a women's garment. The 2001 movie La Pianiste (released with subtitles as The Piano Teacher) describes a relationship between a repressed piano teacher and her pupil, which ends unhappily when she reveals her extreme masochistic desires to him, which brings the relationship to an end, but not before he has made a disgusted attempt to enact his conception of her masochistic fantasies. They are called kilts, but have several differences from the traditional Scottish kilt. Roquelaure. One is an effort by companies such as Utilikilt to sell and promote a line of "masculine" unbifurcated garments. N. There are two recent movements to legitimize the wearing of unbifurcated garments by men in Western society. The novelist Anne Rice, best known for Interview with the Vampire, wrote the sadomasochistic trilogy The Claiming of Sleeping Beauty under the pseudonym of A. Exceptions include:. In this novel, the female principal character is kept in a chateau and mistreated by a group of men. Skirts, dresses, and their like are still considered primarily women's garments in many parts of the world, and the wearing of them by men is sometimes considered cross-dressing. Story of O is another classic masochistic novel, written by a woman, Pauline Réage. Dresses however can be cooler and less confining than many trouser styles, and they are still very popular for special occasions such as proms or weddings. Both works present violent sadism as a force that grows beneath society, only to be eventually unleashed upon it. A disadvantage of skirts and dresses that contributes to many girls and women preferring trousers and shorts is that they may be either too long and therefore limit freedom of movement such as when climbing ladders, or too short, in which case one, because of modesty will need to take the trouble when sitting down, such as crossing legs, to avoid exposure of the underwear. The 1962 science fiction novel A Clockwork Orange, along with its 1971 Stanley Kubrick film adaptation, follow the exploits of a vicious street gang led by a sadistic young nihilist with a taste for Beethoven and gang-rape. In traditional societies, such as in many countries in Africa, the Middle East and Central and South America, it is considered inappropriate for girls and women to wear trousers rather than a skirt or dress. It inspired a song of the same name, and about the same subject matter, by the pioneering rock group The Velvet Underground, featuring the lyric "Kiss the boot of shiny, shiny leather.". In cold climates, girls and women may wear trousers for warmth, with dresses on top to mark their femininity. Leopold von Sacher-Masoch's novel Venus in Furs is essentially one long masochistic fantasy, where the male principal character encourages his mistress to mistreat him. Skirts or dresses are the garments of choice for many women in formal situations, such as weddings and geopolitical summits. In general, the depiction of sadism and masochism in fiction tends to be portrayed from the viewpoint of masochistic fantasy. A skirt may be worn as part of a suit. Recently, there have been theories that many of these personality disorders have been caused by brain damage. In Europe and America skirts and dresses can be worn by females of all ages when they are not wearing pants. Many serial killers' murders have strong sadistic elements. Fads and fashions:. This is generally considered to be caused by personality disorders. Basic shapes:. A small minority of disordered individuals commit crimes with a strong sadistic element. Fads and fashions:. However, this is an uncommon case, and psychiatrists are now moving towards regarding sadism and masochism not as disorders in and of themselves, but only as disorders when associated with other problems such as a personality disorder. Basic shapes:. In certain extreme cases, sadism and masochism can include fantasies, sexual urges or behaviour that cause significant distress or impairment in social, occupational, or other important areas of functioning, to the point that they can be considered part of a mental disorder. Styles of dresses and skirts of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries include:. Note the issue of legal consent which may or may not represent a defence to criminal liability for any more serious injuries caused. Since the 1970s and the rise of pants as an option for all but the most formal of occasions, no one skirt length has dominated fashion for long, with short and ankle-length styles often appearing side-by-side in fashion magazines and catalogs. Many behaviors such as erotic spanking, tickling and love-bites that many people think of only as "rough" sex also contain elements of sado-masochism. For the next fifty years, fashionable skirts became short (1920s), then long (1930s), then shorter (the War Years with their restrictions on fabric), then long (the New Look), then shortest of all during the 1960s, when skirts became as short as possible while avoiding exposure of underwear, which is considered taboo. The term BDSM (A contraction of B&D, D&S and S&M, standing for bondage and discipline, dominance and submission and sadism and masochism respectively) has been created to describe the quite common activities between consenting adults that contain sadistic and masochistic elements. Beginning around 1915, hemlines for daytime dresses left the floor for good. Like sexual fetishes, sadomasochism can be learned through conditioning—in this context, the repeated association of sexual pleasure with an object or stimulus. Throughout this period, the length of fashionable dresses varied only slightly, between ankle-length and floor-sweeping. According to one study, the majority of male sadomasochists (53%) developed their interest before the age of 15, while the majority of females (78%) developed their interest afterwards (Breslow, Evans, and Langley 1985). Dresses were generally one-piece garments from 1800 through the 1840s; after that it became common for a dress to be made as a separate skirt and bodice, and many dresses had a "day" bodice with a high neckline and long sleeves, and an "evening" bodice with a low neckline (decollete) and very short sleeves. Some individuals report having had them before puberty, while others do not discover them until well into adulthood. Skirts started fairly narrow and increased dramatically to the hoopskirt and crinoline-supported styles of the 1860s; then fullness was draped and drawn to the back by means of bustles. Sadomasochistic desires, however, seem to form at a variety of ages. Waistlines started just below the bust and gradually sank to the natural waist. It is usually agreed on by psychologists that experiences during early sexual development can have a profound effect on the character of sexuality later in life. During the nineteenth century, the cut of women's dresses in western culture varied more widely than in any other century. It is poorly understood, though, what ultimately connects these emotional experiences to sexual gratification, or how that connection initially forms. . A sadist, on the other hand, may enjoy the feeling of power and authority that comes from playing the dominant role, or receive pleasure vicariously through the suffering of the masochist. At the other extreme, the miniskirts of the 1960s were minimal garments that may barely cover the underwear when seated. They likewise may derive satisfaction from earning the approval of that figure (see: Servitude (BDSM)). Some medieval upper-class women wore skirts over 3 metres in diameter at the bottom. For others, being under the power of a strong, controlling presence may evoke the feelings of safety and protection associated with childhood. The hemline of skirts and dresses can be as high as the upper thigh or as low as the ground, depending on the whims of fashion and the modesty or personal taste of the wearer. For some, taking on a role of compliance or helplessness offers a form of therapeutic escape; from the stresses of life, from responsiblity, or from guilt. Skirts and dresses of thin or clingy fabrics are worn with slips to make the material of the skirt drape better. There are a number of reasons commonly given for why a sadomasochist finds the practice of S&M enjoyable, and the answer is largely dependent on the individual. Modern skirts and dresses are usually made of light to mid-weight fabrics, such as denim, jersey, worsted, or poplin. However, the degree to which any of these influences actually affect sexuality -- either consciously or unconsciously -- is unknown, and the validity of this theory of socially-conditioned female masochism is questionable. At its simplest, a skirt can be a draped garment made out of a single piece of material (such as sarongs or pareos), but most skirts are fitted to the body at the waist and fuller below, with the fullness introduced by means of darts, gores, pleats, or panels. Some of them further link this hypothesized framework to inequalities among gender, class, and race which remain a substantial part of society, despite the efforts of the civil rights movement and feminism. [2]. According to their theories, sex and relationships are both consistently taught to be formulated within a framework of male dominance and female submission. The kilt is considered a traditional men's garment in Scotland, and is growing in fashion in other parts of the world.[1] Additionally, garments which are identified as skirts are being proposed as men's clothing by some of the trendier fashion houses such as Jean-Paul Gaultier. Many theorists, particularly feminist theories, have suggested that sadomasochism is an inherent part of modern Western culture. However, there are exceptions. Indeed, in the epilogue of Venus In Furs, the character of Severin has become bitter from his experiment in masochism, and advocates instead the domination of women. In Western culture, skirts and dresses are usually considered women's clothing. The perceived sadistic capabilities of masochists are treated by Deleuze as reactions to masochism. A dress (also frock, gown) is a garment consisting of a skirt with an attached bodice or with a matching bodice giving the effect of a one-piece garment. Thus, Deleuze attempts to argue that Masochism and Sadism arise from such different impulses that the combination of the two terms is meaningless and misleading. Unlike trousers, a skirt is "unbifurcated" — that is, not divided into separate legs. The sadist attempts to destroy the ego in an effort to unify the id and superego, in effect gratifying the most base desires the sadist can express while ignoring or competely suppressing the will of the ego, or of the conscience. A skirt is a tube- or cone-shaped garment which hangs from the waist and covers all or part of the legs. The Sadist, in contrast, derives pleasure from The Law: the unavoidable power that places one person below another. The pareu, a dress worn by both men and women in Tahiti. The masochist derives pleasure from, as Deleuze puts it, The Contract: the process by which he can control another individual and turn the individual into someone cold and callous. The foustanella is worn by men in Greece and Albania. Taken to its extreme, an infinite delay, this is manifested as perpetual coldness. The thobe is commonly worn by men in Arabia. Deleuze instead argues that the tendency toward masochism is based on desire brought on from the delay of gratification. The djellaba is worn by men in Morocco and other parts of Africa. In his essay Coldness and Cruelty, Gilles Deleuze refutes the term 'sadomasochism' as artificial, especially in the context of the prototypical masochistic work, Sacher-Masoch's Venus In Furs. The kaftan is worn by men in the eastern Mediterranean. This contradictory character is perhaps most evident in the observation by some that not only are sadomasochistic activities usually done for the benefit of the masochist, but that it is often the masochist that controls them, through subtle emotional cues received by the sadist. Throughout most of Southeast Asia and the Pacific Islands, sarongs are worn by both men and women. It is not only pain to initiate pleasure, but violence—or the simulation of violence—to express love. The Scottish kilt. Here Ellis touches upon the often paradoxical nature of consensual S&M. Trouser skirt, a straight skirt with the part above the hips tailored like men's trousers, with belt loops, pockets, and fly front. This mutual pleasure may even be essential for the satisfaction of those involved. Sarong, a square of fabric wrapped around the body and tied on one hip to make a skirt; worn as a skirt or as a cover-up over a bathing suit in tropical climates. In other words, the sadomasochist generally desires that the pain be inflicted or received in love, not in abuse, for the pleasure of either one or both participants. Broomstick skirt, a skirt with many crumpled pleats formed by compressing and twisting the garment while wet (1980s and on). He also made the important point that sadomasochism is concerned only with pain in regard to sexual pleasure, and not in regard to cruelty, as Freud had suggested. Maxiskirt, a midcalf-length skirt (1970s). Havelock Ellis, in Studies in the Psychology of Sex, argued that there is no clear distinction between the aspects of sadism and masochism, and that they may be regarded as complementary emotional states. Miniskirt, a thigh-length skirt, and micromini, an extremely short version (1960s). Both also assumed that masochism was so inherent to female sexuality that it would be difficult to distinguish as a separate inclination. Though traditionally designed as women's wear, it is fashioned to mimic somewhat closely the general appearance of a (man's) kilt, including the usage of a plaid pattern more or less closely resembling those of recognized tartan patterns of Scotland. Sadomasochism in women received comparatively little discussion, as it was believed that it occurred primarily in men. Kilt-skirt, a wrap-around skirt with overlapping aprons in front and pleated around the back. Freud doubted that masochism in men was ever a primary tendency, and speculated that it may exist only as a transformation of sadism. Prairie skirt, a flared skirt with one or more flounces or tiers (1970s and on). Masochism in men, however, was seen as a more significant aberration, contrary to the nature of male sexuality. Dirndl, a skirt made of a straight length of fabric gathered at the waist. Both Krafft-Ebing and Freud assumed that sadism in men resulted from the distortion of the aggressive component of the male sexual instinct. Poodle skirt, a circle or near-circle skirt with an appliqued poodle or other decoration (1950s). This observation is commonly verified in both literature and practice; many sadists and masochists define themselves as "switchable"—capable of taking pleasure in either role. Hobble skirt, a fashion of the early 20th century, with fullness at the hips narrowing to the ankles. Sigmund Freud, a psychoanalyst and a contemporary of Krafft-Ebing, noted that both were often found in the same individuals, and combined the two into a single dichotomous entity known as sadomasochism (often abbreviated as S&M or S/M). Circle skirt, a skirt cut in sections to make one or more circles with a hole for the waist, so the skirt is very full but hangs smoothly from the waist without darts, pleats, or gathers. The terms sadism and masochism were first used consistently to describe these behaviors by the German psychiatrist Richard Freiherr von Krafft-Ebing in his 1886 compilation of case studies Psychopathia Sexualis, a famous study of sexual perversity. Pleated skirt, a skirt with fullness reduced to fit the waist by means of regular pleats ('plaits') or folds, which can be stitched flat to hip-level or free-hanging. The effects of S&M on body chemistry probably reinforce the behavior and therefore create psychological states that seek to further such behavior. A-line skirt, a skirt with a slight flare, roughly in the shape of a capital letter A. Furthermore, humans have been shown to exhibit sympathetic responses in their bodies while watching, hearing, or imagining such experiences. Full skirt, a skirt with fullness gathered into the waistband. Pain, violence, sex and love all are associated with the release of a variety of hormones and chemicals within the human body. Straight skirt, a tailored skirt hanging straight from the hips and fitted from the waist to the hips by means of darts or a yoke; may have a kick-pleat for ease of walking. . Granny gown, an ankle-length, often ruffled, day dress of printed calico, cut like a Victorian nightgown, popularized by designer Laura Ashley (late 1960s-1970s). Often they are focused primarily on roleplay. Cocktail dress, a semiformal party dress of the current street length (1950s and sporadically popular since). Many sadomasochistic activities involve only mild pain or discomfort. Kitty Foyle, a dark-colored dress with contrasting (usually white) collar and cuffs (1940s, after a dress worn by Ginger Rogers in the movie of the same name). Likewise, a sadist usually only takes pleasure in pain that is inflicted for reasons of punishment and control, and most often for the indirect pleasure of the masochist. Ball gown, a long dress with a full, sweeping, or trained skirt for dancing. A masochist does not in general take pleasure in any arbitrary form of pain, only in pain received under the pretext of enforcing authority, and typically only that of a sexual nature. Evening gown or formal, a long dress for formal occasions. This view is supported by the nature of sadomasochistic behavior. Dinner dress, a semiformal dress worn when fashionable people "dressed for dinner" (men in tuxedos or dinner jackets, even at home). It is often agreed that this desire for dominance or submission is in fact the driving force behind sadomasochism, with the giving and receiving of pain acting only as an active stimulation to reinforce those feelings. Tea gown, a frothy, feminine semiformal dress. There is quite frequently a strong emotional aspect to the sexual desires, taking the form of a need for domination or submission—the desire to be controlled, or to control another, as opposed to a simple desire for pain (which is technically known as algolagnia). Chanel's Little Black Dress (1920s and on). Although it is quite different from the original meaning, this usage is not entirely inaccurate. Tent, a dress flared from above the bust, sometimes with a yoke (1960s). The words are now commonly used to describe personality traits in an emotional, rather than sexual sense. Sundress, a sleeveless dress of any shape, with a low neckline in a lightweight fabric, for summer wear. Sadism and masochism, often going together (one person obtaining sadistic pleasure by inflicting pain or suffering on another person who thereby obtains masochistic pleasure), are collectively known as S&M or sadomasochism. Shift, a straight dress with no waist shaping or seam (1960s). The name is derived from the name of the 19th century author Leopold von Sacher-Masoch, known for his novel "Venus in Furs" that dealt with highly masochistic themes. Sheath, a fitted, often sleeveless dress, sometimes without a waistseam (1960s). The counterpart of sadism is masochism, the sexual pleasure or gratification of having pain or suffering inflicted upon the self, often consisting of sexual fantasies or urges for being beaten, humiliated, bound, tortured, or otherwise made to suffer, either as an enhancement to or a substitute for sexual pleasure. Shirtwaist, a dress with a bodice (waist) like a tailored shirt and an attached straight or full skirt. The word is derived from the name of the Marquis de Sade, a prolific French philosopher-writer of sadistic novels. Sadism is the sexual pleasure or gratification in the infliction of pain and suffering upon another person. For sadism and masochism as paraphilia, see Sadism and masochism as medical terms.). (This article is about sadism and masochism as aspects of BDSM. Archives of Sexual Behavior 1985;(14):303-17. Breslow N, Evans L, Langley J., Maleh, A., On the prevalence and roles of females in the sadomasochistic subculture: Report of an empirical study. Brain chemicals such as serotonin and melatonin can be affected by emotional or stressful experiences. Lactic acid is released by muscles under strain and can be perceived as pleasurable. In this way, the acts of self harm and engaging in masochistic behavior can be similar in function though most would agree, not in causality. It is due to this same release of endorphins that people can become addicted to self harm. Endorphins are released by pain experiences and can be perceived as pleasurable and possibly addictive. Dominant participants often get raised testosterone levels; whereas submissive participants often get depressed testosterone levels. Levels of sex hormone testosterone can be temporarily affected by one's role S&M interactions. |