KiltTo meet Wikipedia's quality standards, this article or section may require cleanup.See rationale on the talk page, or replace this tag with a more specific message. Editing help is available. (Tagged January 2006) Formal Highland regalia, kilt and Prince Charlie jacket for Black tie. A kilt is a man's garment that consists primarily of a length of cloth wrapped around the waist and belted; it is usually accessorized with a pouch for money (and other items) called a sporran. The historical great kilt was long enough to drape up over the shoulder but is rarely seen in modern times. The kilt is associated with traditional Scottish Highland dress and, as such, is almost always made of wool with a woven pattern called tartan (sometimes called plaid). (Traditionally, women do not wear kilts, but often wear full length tartan skirts.) Today most Scotsmen see kilts as formal dress or ceremonial dress. They are often worn at weddings or other formal occasions, while there are still a few people who wear them daily. Kilts are also used for parades by groups like the Scouts, and in many places kilts are seen in force at highland games and pipe band championships as well as being used for Scottish country dances and ceilidhs. The British Army and armies of other Commonwealth nations still continue to have kilts as dress uniform, they have not been used in combat since World War I. HistoryAlthough the kilt is a item of traditional Scottish highland dress, the nationalization of that tradition is relatively recent. It was only with the Romantic Revival of the 19th century that the kilt became irreversibly associated with Highlanders, and in the 20th century among Lowlanders and the Scottish Diaspora. It had long been abandoned by related cultures such as Gauls, and Scandinavians. The word kilt comes from the Scots word kilt meaning to tuck up the clothes around the body. The Scots word derives from the Old Norse kjilt, which means "pleated", from Viking settlers who wore a similar, non-tartan pleated garment. The great kiltHighland chieftain wearing belted plaid, around 1680: larger image.The Breacan an Fhéilidh or Féileadh Mòr was originally a length of thick woollen cloth made up from two loom widths sewn together to give a total width of 1.5 m, up to 5 m in length. The great kilt, also known as the belted plaid, was an untailored draped garment made of the cloth gathered up into pleats by hand and secured by a wide belt. The upper half could be worn as a cloak draped over the left shoulder, hung down over the belt and gathered up at the front, or brought up over the shoulders or head for protection against weather. It was worn over a léine (a full sleeved garment gathered along the arm length and stopping below the waist) and could also serve as a camping blanket. A description from 1746 states: The solid color kilts of the Irish were also usually soaked in goose grease to make them waterproof. For battle it was customary to take off the kilt beforehand and set it aside, the Highland charge being made wearing only the léine. The age of the great kilt is hotly debated but it certainly existed at the beginning of the 17th century. Earlier carvings or illustrations appearing to show the kilt may show the Leine Croich, a knee-length shirt of leather, linen or canvas, heavily pleated and sometimes quilted as protection. The great kilt is mostly associated with the Scottish highlands, but was also used in poor lowland rural areas. Use of this type of kilt continued into the 19th century. The heavy pleats of the Great Kilt also made for good protection from spear thrusts and sword cuts. The revival of the kiltAlthough the kilt was largely forgotten in the Scottish Highlands, during those years it became fashionable for Scottish romantics to wear kilts as a form of protest against the ban. This was an age that romanticized "primitive" peoples, which is what Highlanders were viewed as. Most Lowlanders had viewed Highlanders with fear before 1745, but many identified with them after their power was broken. The kilt, along with other features of Gaelic culture, had become identified with Jacobitism, and now that this had ceased to be a real danger it was viewed with romantic nostalgia. Once the ban was lifted in 1782, Highland landowners set up Highland Societies with aims including "Improvements" (which others would call the Highland clearances) and promoting "the general use of the ancient Highland dress". The Celtic Society of Edinburgh, chaired by Walter Scott, encouraged lowlanders to join this antiquarian enthusiasm. The kilt became identified with the whole of Scotland with the pageantry of the visit of King George IV to Scotland in 1822, even though 9 out of 10 Scots lived in the Lowlands. Scott and the Highland societies organised a "gathering of the Gael" and established entirely new Scottish traditions, including Lowlanders wearing the supposed "traditional" garment of the Highlanders. At this time many other traditions such as clan identification by tartan were developed. After that point the kilt gathered momentum as an emblem of Scottish culture as identified by antiquarians, romantics, and others, who spent much effort praising the "ancient" and natural qualities of the kilt. King George IV had appeared in a spectacular kilt, and his successor Queen Victoria dressed her boys in the kilt, widening its appeal. The kilt became part of the Scottish national identity. The "small kilt" or "walking kilt"Sometime early in the 18th century the fèileadh beag or philabeg using a single width of cloth hanging down below the belt came into use and became quite popular throughout the Highlands and northern Lowlands by 1746, though the great kilt also continued in use. A letter published in the Edinburgh Magazine in March 1785 by one Ivan Baillie argued that the garment people would today recognize as a kilt was invented around the 1720s by Thomas Rawlinson, a Quaker from Lancashire. Rawlinson was claimed to have designed it for the Highlanders who worked in his new charcoal production facility in the woods of northern Scotland. After the Jacobite campaign of 1715 the government was "opening" the Highlands to outside exploitation and Rawlinson was one of the businessmen who took advantage of the situation. It was thought that the traditional Highland kilt, the "belted plaid" which consisted of a large cloak, was inconvenient for tree cutters. He supposedly brought the Highland garment to a tailor, intent on making it more practical. The tailor responded by cutting it in two. Rawlinson took this back and then introduced the new kilt. Rawlinson liked the new creation so much that he began to wear it as well and was soon imitated by his Scottish colleagues, the Clan MacDonnell of Glengarry. Indeed, An Englishman named Thomas Rawlinson opened an iron smelting factory in the Highlands around the year 1730. His workers all dressed in not a cloak, but the belted plaid. Rawlinson required his workers to wear only the bottom part of the plaid, which for some is sufficient proof that an Englishman invented the modern Scottish kilt. The problem with this potential source is that there are numerous illustrations of Highlanders wearing only the bottom part of the belted plaid that date long before Rawlinson ever set foot in Scotland. The belted plaid consisted of two widths of material stitched together. If the widths are not stitched together and only the bottom 4 yards are worn pleated and belted around the waist, the resulting garment is called the feilidh-beag (little wrap). The word is often spelled phillabeg in English. There is some suggestion of its use in the early 17th century, and it was definitely being worn by the 18th century. It most likely came about as a natural evolution of the belted plaid and Rawlinson probably observed it and quickly deduced its usefulness in his situation and insisted on introducing it among his workers. The first instance we have of the pleats being sewn in to the phillabeg, creating a true tailored kilt, comes in 1692, before the time of Rawlinson. This kilt is in the possession of the Scottish Tartans Society. This is the first garment that can truly be called a kilt as we know it today. "The Early History of the Kilt" and "Reconstructing History" quote modern scholarship disputing this story with reference to earlier illustrations of the small kilt. The small kilt developed into the modern tartan kilt when the pleats were sewn in to speed the donning of the kilt. Military use and proscriptionHighland soldier in 1744, an early picture of a Government Tartan great kilt, with the plaid being used to protect the musket lock from rain and wind.From 1624 the Independent Companies of Highlanders had worn kilts as government troops, and with their formation into the Black Watch regiment in 1740 their great kilt uniform was standardised with a new dark tartan. After 1745 the Government decided to form more Highland regiments for the army in order to direct the energies of Gaels, that "hardy and intrepid race of men". In doing so they formed effective new army regiments to send to fight in India, North America, and other locations while lowering the possibility of rebellion at home. As a means of identification the regiments were given different tartans. These regiments opted for the modern kilts for dress uniforms, and while the great kilt remained as undress uniform this was phased out by the early 19th century. In 1746, after the last Jacobite campaign the "Dress Act" outlawed all items of Highland dress including the new kilts (with an exception for army uniforms). The ban remained in effect for 35 years, as part of King George II's campaign to destroy the traditional way of life throughout the Highlands. Scottish troops last wore kilts in combat during WWI. In particular, the ferocious tactics of the Royal Highland Regiment led to their acquiring the nickname "Ladies from Hell" from the German troops that faced them in the trenches. The kilt todayKilt worn with the less formal Argyle jacket, and belt.Kilts have become normal wear for formal occasions, for example being hired for weddings in much the same way as top hat and tails are in England or tuxedos in America, and the kilt is being worn by anyone regardless of nationality or descent. Although a white tie style exists, the more common style of formal Highland regalia is seen in Black tie. Kilts have increasingly become more common around the world for casual wear. It's not uncommon at all to see kilts making an appearance at Irish pubs, and it is becoming somewhat less rare to see them in the workplace. Casual use of the kilt can be dressed down with black boots, white socks rolled down to the top of the boot, perhaps with a black tee shirt. Or it can be a little more dressed up with woolen kilt hose, a button up shirt, sweater, and perhaps even a sport jacket. The small ornamental Sgian Dubh dagger may be omitted. The modern tailored kilt is box-pleated or knife-pleated, with the pleats sewn in and the lower edges reaching not lower than the centre of the knee-cap. Nowadays a lighter weight of cloth tends to be used. The kilt is traditionally for men only, although in the modern era, women have also taken up the kilt as well as dresses patterned after kilts, and women pipers frequently wear kilts. Kilten skirts for girls are also worn. As with any other form of attire, the kilt is subject to the vagaries of fashion. Since the 1980s, kilts have appeared in such materials as leather, denim, blends of polyester and viscose, and acrylic. Solid colours have also been used in place of tartan (solid kilts were historically common in Ireland, especially saffron-coloured), as well as camoflage patterns. While these garments may be disliked by traditionalists, they provide evidence that the kilt still has a place in the modern fashion world and continues to evolve. Kilts have also made an appearance in Wales and Cornwall for special occasions. In these two Celtic regions the kilt is closely linked to the Celtic revival movements of the 19th and 20th century. The English county of Northumberland also possesses a tartan, and some Northumbrians, most notably Northumbrian pipers, wear kilts. Nontraditional kilt trendsUtiliKilt worn by a Black Rock RangerAround the turn of the last century, several companies—including Utilikilts, Twenty-First Century Kilts, and Pittsburgh Kilts—began producing garments that are often not tartan, and referring to their products as kilts. Their products often include revisions of the traditional kilt design, often with pockets, symmetrical pleats, lower waistlines mirroring modern trouser waistlines, and a variety of fabrics and patterns. One of the major selling points of these garments is that one does not have to be of Scottish descent to enjoy the "freedom" and ventilation of wearing a kilt, or to offer comfort of an unbifurcated garment to men who are not aware of such a garment in their individual lineage's culture, which can include sarongs in the Pacific Islands, kimono in Japan, the thobe in Arabia, the lungi in southern Asia, and more recently, the männerrock (men's skirt) in Germany. AccessoriesA bagpiper in military uniform, complete with hair sporran.As a kilt has no pockets, it is worn with a pouch called a sporran. Originally this was a soft deer skin pouch, but with the development of military uniforms elaborate hard leather sporrans came into use, often with decorative silver tops and white hair facings with large tassels. A decorative silver kilt pin adds weight to the loose bottom corner of the kilt. A small knife called a Sgian Dubh may be worn in the the top of one of the kilt hose as part of the standard clothing worn with a kilt. Shoes are usually leather brogues, sometimes with open lacing. The Argyll jacket, often in tweed, is sometimes worn with the kilt, for those occasions that would usually require a sports jacket or lounge suit. This is often in tweed. When the kilt is worn as formal wear, a black "Prince Charlie" jacket is usually prescribed. With some ensembles, a fly plaid is added in the form of a pleated cloth in the same tartan as the kilt, cast over the shoulder and fastened below the shoulder with a plaid brooch. Underwear1st Battalion, Black Watch soldiers in a Hong Kong military ceremony in 1994.The wearing of undergarments with the kilt is a matter of debate. Some believe that underwear should be worn at all times, and going without it is a form of self-indulgence or even exhibitionism. Then there are those who say that underwear should never be worn, and to do so goes against tradition. Thompson1 claims that he never knew of a man who gave it a fair trial that ever went back to wearing underpants with the kilt, and suggests wearing a long-tailed shirt or undershirt to sit on. The majority of wearers have their own preference, and usually have no qualms with whatever anyone else wears (or doesn't wear) beneath their kilt. The uniforms worn by members of several military regiments mandate "no underwear" with the kilt except at specified occasions, such as playing in the pipe band, where marking time can involve raising the knees, taking part in organised sports like Highland games, or attending functions where ladies are present. As a result, to go without underwear is often referred to as "going regimental" or "military practice". (This is similar to the American military expression of going "commando".) In the 1950s, kilted soldiers on parade would be checked by the sergeant major using a mirror on the end of a stick. In 1994, a Black Watch soldier received wide press exposure, because of windy conditions during a military ceremony in Hong Kong. In certain instances, underwear may be useful; it is often difficult for someone new and unused to wearing the kilt to remain decent while regimental, especially in a heavy breeze or while dancing. Both one of the oldest kilt makers and the oldest mail order company for Highland attire in Scotland provide underwear designed for the kilt, although most wearers who regularly go with underwear choose ordinary briefs or boxer shorts. In the end, whether or not underwear is worn on any particular occasion is up to the individual wearer. Whatever decision is made, what a gentleman wears under his kilt is traditionally his own business, and as a rule, polite men will be at pains to keep it so and to preserve the mystique. Thus, the reply to a question on the topic may hint at the answer, but rarely states it outright. Good standard replies if asked are, "Nothing is worn under the kilt. It's all in perfect working order", "The future of bonnie Scotland" or, "Shoes and socks". This page about Kilt includes information from a Wikipedia article. Additional articles about Kilt News stories about Kilt External links for Kilt Videos for Kilt Wikis about Kilt Discussion Groups about Kilt Blogs about Kilt Images of Kilt |
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It's all in perfect working order", "The future of bonnie Scotland" or, "Shoes and socks". In order to survive in a harsh environment, leaves can adapt in the following ways:. Good standard replies if asked are, "Nothing is worn under the kilt. See also : Trichome. Thus, the reply to a question on the topic may hint at the answer, but rarely states it outright. The meaning of several of the following terms can overlap. Whatever decision is made, what a gentleman wears under his kilt is traditionally his own business, and as a rule, polite men will be at pains to keep it so and to preserve the mystique. Leaves can show several degrees of hairiness. In the end, whether or not underwear is worn on any particular occasion is up to the individual wearer. The surface of a leaf can be described by several botanical terms:. Both one of the oldest kilt makers and the oldest mail order company for Highland attire in Scotland provide underwear designed for the kilt, although most wearers who regularly go with underwear choose ordinary briefs or boxer shorts. The leaf margin is characteristic for a genus and aids in determining the species. In certain instances, underwear may be useful; it is often difficult for someone new and unused to wearing the kilt to remain decent while regimental, especially in a heavy breeze or while dancing. See Leaf shape. In 1994, a Black Watch soldier received wide press exposure, because of windy conditions during a military ceremony in Hong Kong. (This is similar to the American military expression of going "commando".) In the 1950s, kilted soldiers on parade would be checked by the sergeant major using a mirror on the end of a stick. Thompson1 claims that he never knew of a man who gave it a fair trial that ever went back to wearing underpants with the kilt, and suggests wearing a long-tailed shirt or undershirt to sit on. Compound leaves are a characteristic of some families of higher plants, such as the Fabaceae. Then there are those who say that underwear should never be worn, and to do so goes against tradition. Because each leaflet can appear to be a "simple leaf", it is important to recognize where the petiole occurs to identify a compound leaf. Some believe that underwear should be worn at all times, and going without it is a form of self-indulgence or even exhibitionism. A compound leaf has a fully subdivided blade, each leaflet of the blade separated along a main or secondary vein. The wearing of undergarments with the kilt is a matter of debate. However, the leaf shape may be one of lobes, but the gaps between lobes do not reach to the main vein. With some ensembles, a fly plaid is added in the form of a pleated cloth in the same tartan as the kilt, cast over the shoulder and fastened below the shoulder with a plaid brooch. A simple leaf has an undivided blade. When the kilt is worn as formal wear, a black "Prince Charlie" jacket is usually prescribed. Two basic forms of leaves can be described considering the way the blade is divided. This is often in tweed. However, we can more easily describe the arrangement of leaves using the following terms:. The Argyll jacket, often in tweed, is sometimes worn with the kilt, for those occasions that would usually require a sports jacket or lounge suit. The formulae themselves can provide clues to the underlying physiological processes that, in this case, determine where the next leaf bud will form in the elongating stem. Shoes are usually leather brogues, sometimes with open lacing. Mathematics is the science of discovering numerical relationships and applying formulae to these relationships. A small knife called a Sgian Dubh may be worn in the the top of one of the kilt hose as part of the standard clothing worn with a kilt. The fact that an arrangement of anything in nature can be described by a mathematical formula is not in itself mysterious. A decorative silver kilt pin adds weight to the loose bottom corner of the kilt. This can be demonstrated by the following:. Originally this was a soft deer skin pouch, but with the development of military uniforms elaborate hard leather sporrans came into use, often with decorative silver tops and white hair facings with large tassels. The denominator gives the number of leaves in the arrangement. As a kilt has no pockets, it is worn with a pouch called a sporran. In the series, the numerator gives the number of complete turns or gyres until the leaf arrives at the initial position. One of the major selling points of these garments is that one does not have to be of Scottish descent to enjoy the "freedom" and ventilation of wearing a kilt, or to offer comfort of an unbifurcated garment to men who are not aware of such a garment in their individual lineage's culture, which can include sarongs in the Pacific Islands, kimono in Japan, the thobe in Arabia, the lungi in southern Asia, and more recently, the männerrock (men's skirt) in Germany. This series tends to a limit of 360° x 34/89 = 137.52 or 137° 30', an angle known mathematically as the 'golden angle'. Their products often include revisions of the traditional kilt design, often with pockets, symmetrical pleats, lower waistlines mirroring modern trouser waistlines, and a variety of fabrics and patterns. There is a regularity in these angles and they follow the numbers in a Fibonacci series: 1/2, 2/3, 3/5, 5/8, 8/13, 13/21, 21/34, 34/55, 55/89. Around the turn of the last century, several companies—including Utilikilts, Twenty-First Century Kilts, and Pittsburgh Kilts—began producing garments that are often not tartan, and referring to their products as kilts. In essence, leaves come off the stem in a spiral pattern, either clockwise or counterclockwise, with (depending upon the species) the same angle of divergence. The English county of Northumberland also possesses a tartan, and some Northumbrians, most notably Northumbrian pipers, wear kilts. As a stem grows, leaves tend to appear arranged around the stem in away that optimizes yield of light. In these two Celtic regions the kilt is closely linked to the Celtic revival movements of the 19th and 20th century. The terminology associated with describing leaf morphology is presented (with illustrations) at Wikibooks. Kilts have also made an appearance in Wales and Cornwall for special occasions. Leaves may be classified in many different ways, and the type is usually characteristic of a species, although some species produce more than one type of leaf. While these garments may be disliked by traditionalists, they provide evidence that the kilt still has a place in the modern fashion world and continues to evolve. Other plant parts like stems or roots are non-determinant, and will continue to grow as long as they have the resources to do so. Solid colours have also been used in place of tartan (solid kilts were historically common in Ireland, especially saffron-coloured), as well as camoflage patterns. These structures are a part of what makes leaves determinant, they grow and achieve a specific pattern and shape, then stop. Since the 1980s, kilts have appeared in such materials as leather, denim, blends of polyester and viscose, and acrylic. External leaf characteristics (such as shape, margin, hairs, etc.) are important for identifying plant species, and botanists have developed a rich terminology for describing leaf characteristics. As with any other form of attire, the kilt is subject to the vagaries of fashion. Both are embedded in a dense parenchyma tissue (= ground tissue), called pith, with usually some structural collenchyma tissue present. Kilten skirts for girls are also worn. The xylem typically lies over the phloem. The kilt is traditionally for men only, although in the modern era, women have also taken up the kilt as well as dresses patterned after kilts, and women pipers frequently wear kilts. The veins are made up of:. Nowadays a lighter weight of cloth tends to be used. They are typical examples of pattern formation through ramification. The modern tailored kilt is box-pleated or knife-pleated, with the pleats sewn in and the lower edges reaching not lower than the centre of the knee-cap. The veins are the vascular tissue of the leaf and are located in the spongy layer of the mesophyll. The small ornamental Sgian Dubh dagger may be omitted. In cold autumns they sometimes turn yellow, bright orange or red as various accessory pigments (carotenoids and anthocyanins) are revealed when the tree responds to cold and reduced sunlight by curtailing chlorophyll production. Or it can be a little more dressed up with woolen kilt hose, a button up shirt, sweater, and perhaps even a sport jacket. After the leaf is shed, a leaf scar develops on the twig. Casual use of the kilt can be dressed down with black boots, white socks rolled down to the top of the boot, perhaps with a black tee shirt. This mechanism to shed leaves is called abscission. It's not uncommon at all to see kilts making an appearance at Irish pubs, and it is becoming somewhat less rare to see them in the workplace. Leaves in temperate, boreal, and seasonally dry zones may be seasonally deciduous (falling off or dying for the inclement season). Kilts have increasingly become more common around the world for casual wear. Plants that lack chlorophyll cannot photosynthesize. Although a white tie style exists, the more common style of formal Highland regalia is seen in Black tie. Leaves are normally green in color, which comes from chlorophyll found in plastids in the chlorenchyma cells. Kilts have become normal wear for formal occasions, for example being hired for weddings in much the same way as top hat and tails are in England or tuxedos in America, and the kilt is being worn by anyone regardless of nationality or descent. Their stomata are situated at the upper surface. In particular, the ferocious tactics of the Royal Highland Regiment led to their acquiring the nickname "Ladies from Hell" from the German troops that faced them in the trenches. Instead for their gaseous exchanges they use a homogeneous aerenchyma (thin-walled cells separated by large gas-filled spaces). Scottish troops last wore kilts in combat during WWI. Even an epidermis and a mesophyll may be lacking. The ban remained in effect for 35 years, as part of King George II's campaign to destroy the traditional way of life throughout the Highlands. These two different layers of the mesophyll are absent in many aquatic and marsh plants. In 1746, after the last Jacobite campaign the "Dress Act" outlawed all items of Highland dress including the new kilts (with an exception for army uniforms). The pores or stomata of the epidermis open into substomatal chambers, connecting to air spaces between the spongy layer cells. These regiments opted for the modern kilts for dress uniforms, and while the great kilt remained as undress uniform this was phased out by the early 19th century. In ferns and most flowering plants the mesophyll is divided into two layers:. As a means of identification the regiments were given different tartans. The products of photosynthesis are called assimilates. In doing so they formed effective new army regiments to send to fight in India, North America, and other locations while lowering the possibility of rebellion at home. This "assimilation tissue" is the primary location of photosynthesis in the plant. After 1745 the Government decided to form more Highland regiments for the army in order to direct the energies of Gaels, that "hardy and intrepid race of men". Most of the interior of the leaf between the upper and lower layers of epidermis is a parenchyma (ground tissue) or chlorenchyma tissue called the mesophyll (= middle leaf). From 1624 the Independent Companies of Highlanders had worn kilts as government troops, and with their formation into the Black Watch regiment in 1740 their great kilt uniform was standardised with a new dark tartan. Trichomes or hairs grow out from the epidermis in many species. The small kilt developed into the modern tartan kilt when the pleats were sewn in to speed the donning of the kilt. Typically, the stomata are more numerous over the abaxial (lower) epidermis than the (adaxial) upper epidermis. "The Early History of the Kilt" and "Reconstructing History" quote modern scholarship disputing this story with reference to earlier illustrations of the small kilt. The stoma complex regulates the exchange of gases and water vapor between the outside air and the interior of the leaf. This is the first garment that can truly be called a kilt as we know it today. The epidermis is covered with pores called stomata (sing., stoma), part of a stoma complex consisting of a pore surrounded on each side by chloroplast-containing guard cells, and two to four subsidiary cells that lack chloroplasts. This kilt is in the possession of the Scottish Tartans Society. These are typically more elongated in the leaves of monocots than in those of dicots. The first instance we have of the pleats being sewn in to the phillabeg, creating a true tailored kilt, comes in 1692, before the time of Rawlinson. The epidermal cells are the most numerous, largest, and least specialized. It most likely came about as a natural evolution of the belted plaid and Rawlinson probably observed it and quickly deduced its usefulness in his situation and insisted on introducing it among his workers. The epidermis tissue includes several differentiated cell types: epidermal cells, guard cells, subsidiary cells, and epidermal hairs (trichomes). There is some suggestion of its use in the early 17th century, and it was definitely being worn by the 18th century. The cuticle may be thinner on the lower epidermis than on the upper epidermis; and is thicker on leaves from dry climates as compared with those from wet climates. The word is often spelled phillabeg in English. The epidermis is usually transparent (epidermal cells lack chloroplasts) and coated on the outer side with a waxy cuticle that prevents water loss. If the widths are not stitched together and only the bottom 4 yards are worn pleated and belted around the waist, the resulting garment is called the feilidh-beag (little wrap). Most leaves show dorsoventral anatomy: the upper (adaxial) and lower (abaxial) surfaces have somewhat different construction and may serve different functions. The belted plaid consisted of two widths of material stitched together. The epidermis serves several functions: protection against water loss, regulation of gas exchange, secretion of metabolic compounds, and (in some species) absorption of water. The problem with this potential source is that there are numerous illustrations of Highlanders wearing only the bottom part of the belted plaid that date long before Rawlinson ever set foot in Scotland. It forms the boundary between the plant and the external world. Rawlinson required his workers to wear only the bottom part of the plaid, which for some is sufficient proof that an Englishman invented the modern Scottish kilt. The epidermis is the outer multi-layered group of cells covering the leaf. His workers all dressed in not a cloak, but the belted plaid. Indeed, An Englishman named Thomas Rawlinson opened an iron smelting factory in the Highlands around the year 1730. A leaf is considered to be a plant organ, typically consisting of the following tissues:. Rawlinson liked the new creation so much that he began to wear it as well and was soon imitated by his Scottish colleagues, the Clan MacDonnell of Glengarry. The tremendous variety shown in leaf structure (anatomy) from species to species is presented in detail below under Leaf types, arrangements, and forms. Rawlinson took this back and then introduced the new kilt. In some species, paired stipules are not obvious or are absent altogether; a petiole may be absent; or the blade may not be laminar (flattened). The tailor responded by cutting it in two. Not every species produces leaves with all of these structural parts. He supposedly brought the Highland garment to a tailor, intent on making it more practical. The point at which the petiole attaches to the stem is called the leaf axil. It was thought that the traditional Highland kilt, the "belted plaid" which consisted of a large cloak, was inconvenient for tree cutters. A structurally complete leaf of an angiosperm consists of a petiole (leaf stem), a lamina (leaf blade), and stipules (small processes located to either side of the base of the petiole). After the Jacobite campaign of 1715 the government was "opening" the Highlands to outside exploitation and Rawlinson was one of the businessmen who took advantage of the situation. . Rawlinson was claimed to have designed it for the Highlanders who worked in his new charcoal production facility in the woods of northern Scotland. The comparable structures of ferns are correctly referred to as fronds. A letter published in the Edinburgh Magazine in March 1785 by one Ivan Baillie argued that the garment people would today recognize as a kilt was invented around the 1720s by Thomas Rawlinson, a Quaker from Lancashire. Leaves can store food and water, and are modified in some plants for other purposes. Sometime early in the 18th century the fèileadh beag or philabeg using a single width of cloth hanging down below the belt came into use and became quite popular throughout the Highlands and northern Lowlands by 1746, though the great kilt also continued in use. Leaves are also the sites in most plants where respiration, transpiration, and guttation take place. The kilt became part of the Scottish national identity. For this purpose, a leaf is typically flat (laminar) and thin, to expose the chloroplast containing cells (chlorenchyma tissue) to light over a broad area, and to allow light to penetrate fully into the tissues. King George IV had appeared in a spectacular kilt, and his successor Queen Victoria dressed her boys in the kilt, widening its appeal. In botany, a leaf is an above-ground plant organ specialized for photosynthesis. After that point the kilt gathered momentum as an emblem of Scottish culture as identified by antiquarians, romantics, and others, who spent much effort praising the "ancient" and natural qualities of the kilt. Protect as spines, which are modified leaves. At this time many other traditions such as clan identification by tartan were developed. eucalypts). Scott and the Highland societies organised a "gathering of the Gael" and established entirely new Scottish traditions, including Lowlanders wearing the supposed "traditional" garment of the Highlanders. Produce aromatic oils to deter herbivores (e.g. The kilt became identified with the whole of Scotland with the pageantry of the visit of King George IV to Scotland in 1822, even though 9 out of 10 Scots lived in the Lowlands. onion). The Celtic Society of Edinburgh, chaired by Walter Scott, encouraged lowlanders to join this antiquarian enthusiasm. Change to bulb parts to store food (e.g. Once the ban was lifted in 1782, Highland landowners set up Highland Societies with aims including "Improvements" (which others would call the Highland clearances) and promoting "the general use of the ancient Highland dress". pitcher plant). The kilt, along with other features of Gaelic culture, had become identified with Jacobitism, and now that this had ceased to be a real danger it was viewed with romantic nostalgia. Leaves to trap insects (e.g. Most Lowlanders had viewed Highlanders with fear before 1745, but many identified with them after their power was broken. Change shape to deflect wind or reduce wind resistance. This was an age that romanticized "primitive" peoples, which is what Highlanders were viewed as. Shrink (to phyllodes) or disappear (with the appearance of cladodes), as photosynthetic functions are transferred to the leaf stem (Acacia species). Although the kilt was largely forgotten in the Scottish Highlands, during those years it became fashionable for Scottish romantics to wear kilts as a form of protest against the ban. cactus). The heavy pleats of the Great Kilt also made for good protection from spear thrusts and sword cuts. Change to spines instead of laminar (blade) leaves (e.g. Use of this type of kilt continued into the 19th century. rhubarb). The great kilt is mostly associated with the Scottish highlands, but was also used in poor lowland rural areas. Thicker leaves to store water (e.g. Earlier carvings or illustrations appearing to show the kilt may show the Leine Croich, a knee-length shirt of leather, linen or canvas, heavily pleated and sometimes quilted as protection. Small, shiny leaves to deflect the sun's rays. The age of the great kilt is hotly debated but it certainly existed at the beginning of the 17th century. Waxy leaf surfaces form to prevent water loss. For battle it was customary to take off the kilt beforehand and set it aside, the Highland charge being made wearing only the léine. Plant prickles are modified clusters of epidermal hairs. The solid color kilts of the Irish were also usually soaked in goose grease to make them waterproof. Leaves rustle to move humidity away from the surface reducing the boundary layer resistance between the leaf and the air. A description from 1746 states:. Hairs develop on the leaf surface to trap humidity in dry climates, creating a large boundary layer to lessen water loss. It was worn over a léine (a full sleeved garment gathered along the arm length and stopping below the waist) and could also serve as a camping blanket. woolly: with long, soft and tortuous or matted hairs. The upper half could be worn as a cloak draped over the left shoulder, hung down over the belt and gathered up at the front, or brought up over the shoulders or head for protection against weather. villous: with long and soft hairs, usually curved. The great kilt, also known as the belted plaid, was an untailored draped garment made of the cloth gathered up into pleats by hand and secured by a wide belt. felted-tomentose: woolly and matted with curly hairs. The Breacan an Fhéilidh or Féileadh Mòr was originally a length of thick woollen cloth made up from two loom widths sewn together to give a total width of 1.5 m, up to 5 m in length. cano-tomentose: between canescent and tomentose. The Scots word derives from the Old Norse kjilt, which means "pleated", from Viking settlers who wore a similar, non-tartan pleated garment. tomentose: densely pubescent with matted, soft white woolly hairs.
It had long been abandoned by related cultures such as Gauls, and Scandinavians. stellate, stelliform: with star-shaped hairs. It was only with the Romantic Revival of the 19th century that the kilt became irreversibly associated with Highlanders, and in the 20th century among Lowlanders and the Scottish Diaspora. silky: with adpressed, soft and straight pubescence. Although the kilt is a item of traditional Scottish highland dress, the nationalization of that tradition is relatively recent. sericeous: silky appearance through fine, straight and appressed (lying close and flat) hairs. . scabrous, scabrid: rough to the touch. The British Army and armies of other Commonwealth nations still continue to have kilts as dress uniform, they have not been used in combat since World War I. pubescent: with soft, short and erect hairs. Kilts are also used for parades by groups like the Scouts, and in many places kilts are seen in force at highland games and pipe band championships as well as being used for Scottish country dances and ceilidhs. puberulent, puberulous: with fine, minute hairs. They are often worn at weddings or other formal occasions, while there are still a few people who wear them daily. pilose: with soft, clearly separated hairs. Today most Scotsmen see kilts as formal dress or ceremonial dress. lanate, lanose: with woolly hairs. (Traditionally, women do not wear kilts, but often wear full length tartan skirts.). hoary: with a fine, close grayish-white pubescence. The kilt is associated with traditional Scottish Highland dress and, as such, is almost always made of wool with a woven pattern called tartan (sometimes called plaid). hispidulous: minutely hispid. The historical great kilt was long enough to drape up over the shoulder but is rarely seen in modern times. hispid: with rigid, bristly hairs. A kilt is a man's garment that consists primarily of a length of cloth wrapped around the waist and belted; it is usually accessorized with a pouch for money (and other items) called a sporran. hirsute: with rather rough or stiff hairs. glandular: with a gland at the tip of the hair. floccose: with flocks of soft, woolly hairs, which tend to rub off. ciliolate: minutely ciliate. ciliate: marginally fringed with short hairs (cilia). canescent: hoary with dense grayish-white pubescence. bristly: with stiff hair-like prickles. bearded: with long, stiff hairs. barbellate: with finely barbed hairs (barbellae). arachnoid, arachnose: with many fine, entangled hairs giving a cobwebby appearance. glabrous: no hairs of any kind present. viscid, viscous: covered with thick, sticky secretions. verrucose: warted, with warty outgrowths. tuberculate: covered with tubercles; covered with warty prominences. scurfy: covered with tiny, broad scalelike particles. rugose: deeply wrinkled; with veins clearly visible. punctate: marked with dots; dotted with depressions or with translucent glands or colored dots. pubescent: covered with erect hairs (especially soft and short ones). papillate, papillose: bearing papillae (minute, nipple-shaped protuberances). glutinous: sticky, viscid. glaucous: with a whitish bloom; covered with a very fine, bluish-white powder. glabrous: smooth, not hairy. farinose: bearing farina; mealy, covered with a waxy, whitish powder. truncate: ending abruptly with a flat end, that looks cut off. sagittate: shaped like an arrowhead and with the acute basal lobes pointing downward. rounded: curving shape. reniform: kidney-shaped but rounder and broader than long. oblique: slanting. hastate: shaped like an halberd and with the basal lobes pointing outward. cuneate: wedge-shaped. cordate: heart-shaped with the norch away from the stem. auriculate: ear-shaped. acute: coming to a sharp, but not prolonged point. acuminate: coming to a sharp, narrow, prolonged point. truncate: ending abruptly with a flat end, that looks cut off. obtuse: rounded or blunt. obcordate: inversely heart-shaped, deeply notched at the top. mucronulate: mucronate, but with a smaller spine. mucronate: abruptly tipped with a small short point, as a continuation of the midrib; tipped with a mucro. emarginate: indented, with a shallow notch at the tip. cuspidate: with a sharp, elongated, rigid tip; tipped with a cusp. acute: ending in a sharp, but not prolonged point. acuminate: long-pointed, prolonged into a narrow, tapering point in a concave manner. spiny: with stiff, sharp points, such as some Ilex (hollies) and Cirsium (thistles). sinuate: with deep, wave-like indentations; coarsely crenate, such as many Rumex (docks). serrulate: finely serrate. serrate: saw-toothed with asymmetrical teeth pointing forward, such as Urtica (nettle). palmately lobed: indented with the indentations reaching to the center, such as Humulus (hop). lobate: indented, with the indentations not reaching to the center, such as many Quercus (oaks)
doubly toothed: each tooth bearing smaller teeth, such as Ulmus (elm). denticulate: finely toothed. glandular toothed: with teeth that bear glands. coarse-toothed: with large teeth. dentate: toothed, such as Castanea (chestnut)
Dichotomous — There are no dominant bundles, with the veins forking regularly by pairs; found in Ginkgo and some pteridophytes. Typical for most monocotyledons, such as grasses. Commissural veins (small veins) connect the major parallel veins. Parallel-veined, parallel-ribbed, parallel-nerved, penniparallel — veins run parallel most the length of the leaf, from the base to the apex. most Acer (maples). Palmate-netted, palmate-veined, fan-veined; several main veins diverge from near the leaf base where the petiole attaches, and radiate toward the edge of the leaf; e.g. Three main veins originate from the base of the lamina, as in Ceanothus. Pinnate-netted, penniribbed, penninerved, penniveined; the leaf has usually one main vein (called the mid-vein), with veinlets, smaller veins branching off laterally, usually somewhat parallel to each other; eg Malus (apples). This type of venation is typical for dicotyledons.
interpetiolar : between the petioles of two opposite leaves. encircling the petiole base. rhubarb,. ochreate : provided with ochrea, or sheath-formed stipules, e.g. adnate : fused to the petiole base. free. The situation, arrangement, and structure of the stipules is called the stipulation.
A stipule, present on the leaves of many dicotyledons, is an appendage on each side at the base of the petiole, resembling a small leaf. In clasping leaves, the blade partially or wholly surrounds the stem, giving the impression that the shoot grows through the leaf such as in Claytonia perfoliata of the purslane family (Portulacaceae). In sessile leaves the blade attaches directly to the stem. Sessile or clasping leaves do not have a petiole. In peltate leaves, the petiole attaches to the blade inside from the blade margin. Petiolated leaves have a petiole.
Trifolium (clover), Laburnum (laburnum). trifoliate: a pinnate leaf with just three leaflets, e.g. Albizia (silk tree). The pinnules on one secondary vein are called pinna; e.g. Each leaflet is called a pinnule. Bipinnately compound leaves are twice divided: the leaflets are arranged along a secondary vein that is one of several branching off the rachis. Swietenia (mahogany). even pinnate: lacking a terminal leaflet, e.g. Fraxinus (ash). odd pinnate: with a terminal leaflet, e.g. Pinnately compound leaves have the leaflets arranged along the main or mid-vein (called a rachis in this case).
There is no rachis, e.g. Palmately compound leaves have the leaflets radiating from the end of the petiole, like fingers off the palm of a hand. Rosulate — leaves form a rosette ( = a cluster of leaves growing in crowded circles from a common center). Note: opposite leaves may appear whorled near the tip of the stem. As with opposite leaves, successive whorls may or may not be decussate, rotated by half the angle between the leaves in the whorl (i.e., successive whorls of three rotated 60°, whorls of four rotated 45°, etc). Whorled — three or more leaves attach at each point or node on the stem. Opposite — leaf attachments paired at each node; decussate if, as typical, each successive pair is rotated 90° going along the stem; or distichous if not rotated, but two-ranked (in the same plane). Alternate — leaf attachments singular at nodes, and leaves alternate direction, to a greater or lesser degree, along the stem. 135° (or 3/8) : eight leaves in three gyres. 144° (or 2/5) : five leaves in two gyres. 120° (or 1/3) : three leaves in one circle. alternate leaves have an angle of 180° (or 1/2). Other specialized leaves. Sheath leaves (type found in most grasses). Microphyll leaves. Angiosperm (flowering plant) leaves: the standard form includes stipules, petiole, and lamina. Conifer leaves are typically needle-, awl-, or scale-shaped. Ferns have fronds. phloem, which usually moves sap out, the latter containing the glucose produced by photosynthesis in the leaf. xylem, which brings water from the stem into the leaf. These cells contain less chloroplasts than those of the palisade layer. There are large intercellular air spaces. The cells of the spongy layer are more rounded and not so tightly packed. Beneath the palisade layer is the spongy layer. Sun leaves have a multi-layered palisade layer, while shade leaves or older leaves closer to the soil, are single-layered. In order to adapt to their different environment (such as sun or shade), plants had to adapt this structure to obtain optimal result. This separation must be minimal to afford capillary action for water distribution. The slight separation of the cells provides maximum absorption of carbon dioxide. Cylindrical cells, with the chloroplasts close to the walls of the cell, can take optimal advantage of light. These long cylindrical cells are regularly arranged in one to five rows. Its cells contain many more chloroplasts than the spongy layer. An upper palisade layer of tightly packed, vertically elongated cells, one to two cells thick, directly beneath the adaxial epidermis. An arrangement of veins (the vascular tissue). An interior chlorenchyma called the mesophyll. An epidermis that covers the upper and lower surfaces. |