Jeans

Blue Jeans

Jeans are trousers made from denim. Originally work clothes, they became popular among teenagers starting in the 1950s. Historic brands include Levi's and Wrangler. Today Jeans are a very popular form of casual dress around the world and come in many styles and colors.

History

The earliest known pre-cursor for jeans is the Indian export of a thick cotton cloth, in the 16th century, known as dungaree. Dyed in indigo, it was sold in the vicinity of the Dongarii Fort near Mumbai. Sailors cut it to suit them. [1]

Jeans were first created in Genoa, Italy when the city was an independent Republic and a naval power. The first were made for the Genoese Navy because it required all-purpose trousers for its sailors that could be worn wet or dry, and whose legs could easily be rolled up to wear while swabbing the deck. These jeans would be laundered by dragging them in large mesh nets behind the ship, and the sea water would bleach them white. The first denim came from Nîmes, France, hence de Nimes, the name of the fabric. The French word for these trousers was anchored around their word for Genoa. The French bleu de Gênes, from the Italian blu di genova, literally the "blue of Genoa" dye of their fabric, is the root of the names for these pants, "jeans" and "blue jeans", today.

Circa 1872, jeans made a formal arrival in America. Levi Strauss was a Bavarian dry goods merchant living in San Francisco. One of Levi's customers was Jacob Davis, a tailor who frequently purchased bolts of cloth from the Levi Strauss & Co wholesale house. After one of Jacob's customers kept purchasing cloth to reinforce torn trousers, he had an idea to use copper rivets to reinforce the points of strain, such as on the pocket corners and at the base of the button fly. Jacobs did not have the required money to purchase a patent, so he wrote to Levi suggesting that they both go into business together. After Strauss accepted Davis's offer, on May 20, 1873, the two men received patent #139,121, a patent for an "Improvement in Fastening Pocket-Openings", from the United States Patent and Trademark Office, and the blue jean, as we know it today, was born.

Jeans in popular culture

Blue jeans

Initially blue jeans were simply sturdy trousers worn by workers. In the United States during the 1950s, wearing of blue jeans by teenagers and young adults became symbolic of mild protest against conformity. This was considered by some adults as disruptive; for example, some movie theaters refused to admit patrons who wore blue jeans. During the 1960s the wearing of blue jeans became more acceptable and by the 1970s had become a general fashion in the United States, at least for informal wear. Acceptance of jeans continued through the 1980s and 1990s to the point where jeans are now a wardrobe staple, with the average American owning 7 pairs.

Levi's are known for their rugged construction, personal "shrink-to-fit", and versatility. Originally worn by miners, farmers, and cowboys, Levis are worn and seen in all walks of life. Levis were originally produced in only three sizes, and the wearer would jump into a body of water -- from a creek to a pond to a horse trough, to shrink them to fit. Today, Levis are available in a variety of styles, from tight to loose fit, and are sold either pre-washed or shrink-to-fit. Outside of the United States, particularly in Russian popular culture, blue jeans were and are fashionable, symbolizing American culture and the good life. Being imported American products, especially in the case of the Soviet Union which restricted hard currency imports, they were somewhat expensive. In Chinese, jeans are known as niuzaiku (SC: 牛仔裤), literally, "cowboy pants" (trousers), indicating their association with the American West, cowboy culture, and outdoors work.

Fits

Fits of jeans are determined by current styles, sex and by the manufacturer. Here are just some of the fits of the past and present:

  • Ankle
  • Loose
  • Straight
  • Boot Cut
  • Baggy
  • Slim Fit
  • Boy Cut
  • Bell Bottom/Flare
  • Saggy
  • Carpenter
  • Original
  • Classic
  • Skinny Leg

Rises in jeans (the distance from the crotch to the waistband) range from high-waisted to superlow-rise. See Lowrise jeans.

Types

Besides trousers, jeans can also be made into:

  • Shorts
  • Skorts - combination of shorts and skirts
  • Dresses
  • Skirts
  • Jackets
  • Bags
  • Hats
  • Capris
  • Cut offs

Law

On 10 February 1999 the Italian Supreme Court of Appeal in Rome overturned a rape conviction, stating that jeans are unable to be removed without the wearer's consent. Therefore, they ruled, the supposed victim must have been an active participant in the act. [2] This last verdict, however, was also overturned, on 28 November 2001 by the Italian Supreme Court of Cassation, which finally established that wearing jeans does not exclude rape. [3]


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[3]. Creative knitters have successfully used ribbon, plastic strips, wire, crepe paper, string threaded with beads, and rope to fashion bags, bowls, jewelry, household items, and works of art. [2] This last verdict, however, was also overturned, on 28 November 2001 by the Italian Supreme Court of Cassation, which finally established that wearing jeans does not exclude rape. Ultimately, there is no restriction as to what materials can be used to knit; anything that can be viewed as a long strand of something can be used as a sort of knitting yarn. Therefore, they ruled, the supposed victim must have been an active participant in the act. Filati Bertagna's Aymara is a very fine alpaca-wool blend that is knitted in the round over a couple stitches to make up a bigger thread. On 10 February 1999 the Italian Supreme Court of Appeal in Rome overturned a rape conviction, stating that jeans are unable to be removed without the wearer's consent. Louisa Harding's Sari Ribbon is a very wide multicolored synthetic ribbon with a streak of glittering fiber woven in its middle.

Besides trousers, jeans can also be made into:. Katia's Rumba Mix is a ribbon that has changes in fiber within the same length involving changes of texture and changes of color. See Lowrise jeans. Some novelty yarns are even more extravagant and can be hard to describe. Rises in jeans (the distance from the crotch to the waistband) range from high-waisted to superlow-rise. Such yarns have a wide array of different effects that can be obtained by knitting the yarn in the round over the number of stitches normally cast for a sock. Here are just some of the fits of the past and present:. Sock yarn companies have evidently taken a great interest in self striping yarn.

Fits of jeans are determined by current styles, sex and by the manufacturer. If the proper number of stitches is cast, then stripes will appear as the yarn is knitted into a garment. In Chinese, jeans are known as niuzaiku (SC: 牛仔裤), literally, "cowboy pants" (trousers), indicating their association with the American West, cowboy culture, and outdoors work. In some yarns the same process is used, but at the same time the color repeats are long enough to enable a self-striping feature. Being imported American products, especially in the case of the Soviet Union which restricted hard currency imports, they were somewhat expensive. Sometimes the colour will come through the sequence in which different colours are spun together. Outside of the United States, particularly in Russian popular culture, blue jeans were and are fashionable, symbolizing American culture and the good life. Most often these will be obtained through the print process, in which a fiber will have different colours through a dyeing process.

Today, Levis are available in a variety of styles, from tight to loose fit, and are sold either pre-washed or shrink-to-fit. Very often, novelty yarns will involve a lot of colour change. Levis were originally produced in only three sizes, and the wearer would jump into a body of water -- from a creek to a pond to a horse trough, to shrink them to fit. Ribbon yarns must have give and elasticity. Originally worn by miners, farmers, and cowboys, Levis are worn and seen in all walks of life. They are ribbon yarns made for knitting. Levi's are known for their rugged construction, personal "shrink-to-fit", and versatility. They are not the kind of ribbons used in sewing and millinery.

Acceptance of jeans continued through the 1980s and 1990s to the point where jeans are now a wardrobe staple, with the average American owning 7 pairs. Another type of novelty yarn is ribbon yarn. During the 1960s the wearing of blue jeans became more acceptable and by the 1970s had become a general fashion in the United States, at least for informal wear. Some of the drawbacks of eyelash yarns is that they tend to have poor stitch definition, and that they are not flattering to curvy figures, so they are mostly used for accessories such as scarves. This was considered by some adults as disruptive; for example, some movie theaters refused to admit patrons who wore blue jeans. The core and hair of the thread can be metallic, and the hairs can sometimes be two different lengths. In the United States during the 1950s, wearing of blue jeans by teenagers and young adults became symbolic of mild protest against conformity. The hair can be curly.

Initially blue jeans were simply sturdy trousers worn by workers. The most prominent types would probably be 100% polyester with a straight and relatively short hair. After Strauss accepted Davis's offer, on May 20, 1873, the two men received patent #139,121, a patent for an "Improvement in Fastening Pocket-Openings", from the United States Patent and Trademark Office, and the blue jean, as we know it today, was born. The texture and composition of such yarns have been explored by many companies, and there are innumerable types of eyelash yarns. Jacobs did not have the required money to purchase a patent, so he wrote to Levi suggesting that they both go into business together. In general, eyelash yarns will be hairy and have the general aspect of faux fur once knitted up in a garment. After one of Jacob's customers kept purchasing cloth to reinforce torn trousers, he had an idea to use copper rivets to reinforce the points of strain, such as on the pocket corners and at the base of the button fly. Another type of novelty yarn is eyelash yarn.

One of Levi's customers was Jacob Davis, a tailor who frequently purchased bolts of cloth from the Levi Strauss & Co wholesale house. Some companies have come to put twin yarns on the market to show off combinations of one regular yarn and a novelty yarns in assorted colours or even two different types of novelty yarns. Levi Strauss was a Bavarian dry goods merchant living in San Francisco. The extra element can be a metallic thread, or a much-thicker or much-narrower strand of yarn, or yarn that varies between thick and thin. Circa 1872, jeans made a formal arrival in America. To make boucle, the tension on one strand, as it is being spun, must be different than on the other. The French bleu de Gênes, from the Italian blu di genova, literally the "blue of Genoa" dye of their fabric, is the root of the names for these pants, "jeans" and "blue jeans", today. Yarns of this type involve at least one or two strands of regular yarn twisted together with something else to make an interesting texture.

The French word for these trousers was anchored around their word for Genoa. One variety of novelty yarn is called boucle, textured or flammé. The first denim came from Nîmes, France, hence de Nimes, the name of the fabric. There are yarns that are entirely metallic. These jeans would be laundered by dragging them in large mesh nets behind the ship, and the sea water would bleach them white. Novelty yarns now come in all shapes and textures. The first were made for the Genoese Navy because it required all-purpose trousers for its sailors that could be worn wet or dry, and whose legs could easily be rolled up to wear while swabbing the deck. What could define a novelty yarn as opposed to "regular" yarn is the exaggeration in one or many of a regular fiber's characteristics; for example, some yarns are a bit fuzzy or hairy, but a novelty yarn might take that to an extreme, with yarns that have long hairs or metallic fuzz.

Jeans were first created in Genoa, Italy when the city was an independent Republic and a naval power. Typically, novelty yarns arise from innovations in the spinning process. [1]. There has been a dramatic increase in the amount and in the different forms in which novelty yarns can be found. Sailors cut it to suit them. Novelty yarns have been on the market for a long time, but have enjoyed a revival as many new knitters learn to knit, and expect fun and dazzling materials to knit with. Dyed in indigo, it was sold in the vicinity of the Dongarii Fort near Mumbai. A relatively recent trend in knitting yarn is the novelty yarn.

The earliest known pre-cursor for jeans is the Indian export of a thick cotton cloth, in the 16th century, known as dungaree. Some other synthetics are available as well; yarn designed for use in socks frequently contains a small percentage of nylon for durability, and numerous specialty yarns exist. . 100% acrylic yarns are available, as are wool-acrylic blends in various proportions. Today Jeans are a very popular form of casual dress around the world and come in many styles and colors. However, there is currently a large community of knitters that prefer the feel of natural fibers, both during the knitting process and in the final product. Historic brands include Levi's and Wrangler. Acrylic yarn for a long time completely dominated the knitting market, and is still frequently the only available option at craft stores and other stores that do not specialise in knitting supplies.

Originally work clothes, they became popular among teenagers starting in the 1950s. A number of synthetic materials are also commonly made into yarn, chiefly acrylic. Jeans are trousers made from denim. In any case, the finished product will be rather different from those made with woolen yarns. Cut offs. Cotton can be mercerised to increase its elasticity and its resistance to pilling. Capris. Pure linen makes a poor knitting fiber, having no elasticity; it is often blended with cotton, wool or acrylic.

Hats. Given the cost of silk, it is often blended with other fibers, such as rayon, cotton and wool. Bags. These tend to be much less elastic than the animal-hair yarns, though they can be stronger in some cases. Jackets. Other natural fibers that can be used for yarn include silk, or vegetal fibers such as linen and cotton. Skirts. Some of the more expensive fibres, such as cashmere, are often blended with other types, merino wool being very popular for its softness and fineness.

Dresses. Natural fibres such as these have the advantage of being slightly elastic and very breathable, while trapping a great deal of air, making for a fairly warm fabric. Skorts - combination of shorts and skirts. mohair or cashmere), rabbit hair (usually angora), and alpaca fur are also well-known. Shorts. The classic knitting material is worsted-weight yarn spun from the wool of a sheep, though goat's wool (e.g. Skinny Leg. These are discussed in the history of knitting.

Classic. There are many regional styles of knitted garments with long histories, such as guernsey sweaters, jerseys, and the already-mentioned aran sweaters and Fair Isle patterning. Original. To control this, each dye lot is assigned a unique serial number, which is generally printed somewhere on the band around the skein. Carpenter. They may appear identical on the skein, but when knit into a solid field of colour, the subtle change when the knitter switched skeins will become much more apparent. Saggy. Even a tightly-regulated factory dye process will not be able to exactly match the colour between dye lots, though.

Bell Bottom/Flare. Yarn is dyed in batches, or lots, and within such a lot the colour will match nearly perfectly. Boy Cut. Even if the pattern is all a single colour—and perhaps especially then—it is important that the dye lot numbers match. Slim Fit. double knitting and slip-stitch colour). Baggy. Fair Isle), or both (e.g.

Boot Cut. intarsia), busy small-scale patterns of colour (e.g. Straight. More complicated techniques permit large fields of colour (e.g. Loose. Even with solid-colour yarn, the knitter can easily create horizontal stripes by changing yarn at the end of a row. Ankle. This will allow the garment to have a random colour variation.

When knitting with yarns whose colours change, it is best to alternate between two different skeins of yarn, usually alternating every other row. Some yarns are dyed to be either variegated (changing colour every few stitches) or self-striping (changing every few rows). Plenty of finished knitting projects never use more than a single colour of yarn, but there are many ways to work in multiple colours. Entrelac forms a rich checkerboard texture by knitting small squares, picking up their side edges, and knitting more squares to continue the piece.

Changing the order of stitches from one row to the next, usually with the help of a cable needle or stitch holder, is the trick underlying cables, honeycombs, ropes, and other Aran sweater patterning. by knitting two stitches together) can make a very open fabric resembling lace. Combining "yarn-over" increases (which create small eyelet holes in the resulting fabric) with assorted decreases (e.g. Some more advanced knitting techniques create a surprising variety of complex textures.

Adding a "slip stitch" (just moving a loop from one needle to the other, without working it) allows for a wide range of textures, including heel and linen stitches, and a number of more complicated patterns. Other simple textures can be made with nothing but knit and purl stitches, including garter stitch, ribbing, and moss and seed stitches. The canonical default texture for a knit garment is that generated by the flat stockinette stitch—as seen, though very small, in machine-made stockings and t-shirts—which is worked in the round as nothing but knit stitches, and worked flat as alternating rows of knit and purl. Smaller items, such as socks and hats are usually knit in one piece on double pointed needles or circular needles.

Seamless knitting, where a whole garment is knit as a single piece is also possible. Typically, the final knitted garment will be made of several knitted pieces, with individual sections of the garment knit separately and then sewn together once all the pieces have been completed. Although the mechanics are different from casting on, there are a similar variety of methods and choices to be made. Casting (or binding) off loops the stitches across each other so they can be removed from the needle without unravelling the item.

Once the knitted piece is finished, the remaining live stitches are cast off. The number of active stitches remains the same as when cast on unless stitches are added (an increase) or removed (a decrease) to shape the item. It is sometimes claimed that there are as many methods of knitting as there are knitters, but most Western-style knitters follow either the English style or the Continental style. The body of a knitted piece may include plain stitches or a number of colour and textured patterns.

Provisional cast ons are used when the knitting will continue in both directions from the cast on. Different methods of cast on are used for different effects; one may be stretchy enough for lace, while another provides a decorative edging. A piece of knitting begins with the process of casting on (also known as "binding on"), which involves the initial creation of the stitches on the needle. Different combinations of knit and purl stitches, along with more advanced techniques, generate fabrics of considerably variable consistency, from gauzy to very dense, from highly stretchy to relatively stiff, from flat to tightly curled, and so on.

They also curl considerably less, and for this reason they are popular as edging even when their stretch properties are not desired. Each such fabric has different properties: a garter stitch has much more vertical stretch, while ribbing stretches much more horizontally. But stitches can actually be worked from either side, and many patterns are created by mixing regular knit stitches with the "wrong side" stitches, known as purl stitches, either in columns (ribbing), rows (garter or welting), or more complex patterns. Because the yarn holding rows together is all on the front, and the yarn holding side-by-side stitches together is all on the back, stockinette fabric has a strong tendency to curl toward the front on the top and bottom, and toward the back on the left and right side.

On the wrong side, the ends of the loops are visible, both the tops and bottoms, creating a much more bumpy texture sometimes called reverse stockinette (despite being the "wrong side," reverse stockinette is frequently used as a pattern in its own right). On the right side, the visible portions of the loops are the verticals connecting two rows, arranged in a grid of V shapes. The basic knit fabric (as in the diagram, and usually called a stocking or stockinette pattern) has a definite right side and wrong side. Many modern stretchy garments, even as they rely on elastic synthetic materials for some stretch, also achieve at least some of their stretch through knit patterns.

This stretchiness, unavailable from woven fabrics (which only stretch along the bias), is what originally made knitting so suitable for stockings. Because there is no single straight line of yarn anywhere in the pattern, a knit piece will be stretchy in all directions (some more than others, depending on the yarn fiber and the specific pattern used). The loops of one row have all been lifted through the loops of the row below it. Unlike woven fabrics, where strands usually run straight horizontally and vertically, yarn that has been knit follows a loopy path along its row, as with the red strand in this diagram:.

The topology of a knit fabric is relatively complex. Modern knitters come from all ages, walks of life, and (increasingly) genders—a social stigma against male knitters has been rapidly disappearing, and most knitting circles now sport at least a few men. Hand-knitting has gone in and out of fashion many times in the last two centuries or so, and at the turn of the 21st century it is enjoying a revival. Knitting joined quilting, spinning, needlepoint, and the like as a social activity, performed while the crafters converse among themselves.

With the invention of the knitting machine, knitting "by hand" became a useful but nonessential craft, and its practitioners increasingly female. Knitting became a household occupation with the growing popularity of knitted stockings and by the end of the 1600s, one to two million pairs of stockings were exported from Britain to other parts of Europe. The first knitting trade guild was started in Paris in 1527, establishing the occupation as male-dominated for centuries to come. The earliest definite examples of knitting date from Europe and Egypt in the 14th century, although some claim that the technology dates back into centuries BC.

. Knitting can also be done by machines, which use a different mechanical system to produce nearly identical results. Work can proceed in the round (circular knitting) or by going back and forth in rows. This forms a new stitch.

A second knitting needle is then used to reach through each loop (or stitch) in succession in order to snag a bight of yarn and pull a length back through the loop. In practice, hand knitting is usually begun (or "cast on") by forming a base series of twisted loops of yarn on a knitting needle. Knitting can be done either by hand, described below, or by knitting machine. The courses are joined to each other by interlocking loops in which a short loop of one course of yarn is wrapped over the bight of another course.

Unlike woven fabric, knitted fabric consists entirely of horizontal parallel courses of yarn. Knitting is one of several ways to turn thread or yarn into cloth (compare to weaving, crochet).