This page will contain external links about surfing, as they become available.SurfingSurfing (Hawaiian: he‘e nalu, "wave-sliding") is a very popular recreational activity and sport in which individuals are propelled across the water by the force of waves, while standing on a flat, wide board. Most modern surfboards are made of urethane foam (with one or more wooden strips or "stringers"), fiberglass cloth, and polyester resin. An emerging surf technology is an epoxy surfboard, made from a different material. Epoxy boards are stronger and lighter than traditional fiberglass boards. HistoryOriginally developed by Hawaiian islanders (see Ngaru), before the 15th century, "he'e nalu" spread in the early 20th century to the mainland USA and Australia, where heavy timber "plank" boards were ridden directly towards beaches. The sport exploded in popularity in the 1950s and 1960s, when cheaper, more maneuverable, and lighter boards made of fiberglass and foam became available and the teenaged baby boomers headed to the beach in droves to enjoy the maneuverability and stunts made possible by the new boards. The sport has spread to most places where waves of sufficient size and shape appear, including Brazil, Costa Rica, France, Ireland, México, New Zealand, Norway, South Africa, and many island states including Barbados in the Caribbean and Tahiti in the Pacific. Long Island is also a very popular spot for surfing. Equipment used in surfing includes a leash (to keep a surfer's board from washing to shore after a 'wipeout', and to prevent it from hitting other surfers), surf wax and/or traction pads (to keep a surfers feet from slipping off the deck of the board), and "skegs" (also known as fins) which can either be permanently attached ("glassed-on") or interchangeable. In warmer climates swimsuits, surf trunks or boardshorts are worn; in cold water surfers can opt to wear wetsuits, booties, hoods, and gloves to protect them against lower water temperatures. Surfing's appeal probably derives from an unusual confluence of elements: adrenaline, skill, and high paced maneuvering are set against a naturally unpredictable backdrop—an organic environment that is, by turns, graceful and serene, violent and formidable. Surfers' skills are tested not only in their ability to control their board in challenging conditions, but by their ability to execute various maneuvers such as the 'cutback' (turning back toward the breaking part of the wave), the 'floater' (riding on the top of the breaking curl of the wave), 'off the lip' (banking off the top of the wave), the 'aerial' (arcing through the air above the wave) and, if the surf conditions allow it, tuberiding. This is the holy grail of surfing, where the surfer maneuvers into a position where the wave curls over the top of them, forming a "tube" (or "barrel"), with the rider inside the cylindrical portion of the wave. However, such situations do not exist if the waves 'dump' or 'close-out', meaning that they break in large parts at a time. The drama of surfing obscures the sport's mundane aspects. Most people only see the pros riding and miss (when televised) or ignore the time-consuming paddling out and waiting required to get a surfer into position. Competitive surfing is a comparison sport. Riders, competing in pairs or small groups, are allocated a certain amount of time to ride waves and display their prowess and mastery of the craft. Competitors are then judged according to how competently the wave is ridden, including the level of difficulty, as well as frequency, of maneuvers. There is a professional surfing world championship series held annually at surf beaches around the world. Although competitive surfing has become an extremely popular and lucrative activity, both for its participants and its sponsors, the sport does not have its origins as a competitive pursuit. It is common to hear debate rage between purists of the sport, who still maintain the ideal of 'soul surfing', and surfers who engage in the competitive and, consequently, commercial side of the activity. A non-competitive adventure activity involving riding the biggest waves possible (known as "rhino hunting") is also popular with some surfers. A practice popularised in the 1990s has seen big wave surfing revolutionised, as surfers use jetskis to tow them out to a position where they can catch previously unrideable waves (See also: tow-in surfing). These waves were previously unrideable due to the speed at which they travel. Some waves reach speeds of over 60 km/h; jetskis enable surfers to reach the speed of the wave thereby making them rideable. Jetskis not only allow surfers to ride these waves but allow them to survive 'wipeouts'. In many instances surfers would not survive the battering of the 'sets' (groups of waves together) without drowning. This spectacular activity is extremely popular with television crews, but because such waves rarely occur in heavily populated regions, and usually only a very long way out to sea on outer reefs, few spectators see such events directly. A surfer on the North Shore, Hawaii catches a wave.Understanding wavesSurfing conditions at a particular location or "break" that is known for surfing (see below) are almost never ideal. Wind blown consistently over a large area of fetch, or open water, generates waves. These waves use a drafting effect similar to race cars and cyclists to travel vast distances efficiently. To learn more about surf meteorology, see StormSurf's Tutorials. As waves near their ultimate destination (land), the bottom of the wave begins to run aground as the water becomes more shallow. There are two primary factors that contribute to the general characteristics of waves at a particular break: (1) the "swell window" or the exposure of the location to wave-generating areas of fetch, and (2) the structure of the ocean floor (composition, shape). The swell window determines the potential of a break to receive waves. In general, the western coast of any continent usually has better breaks since winds (and, therefore, waves) tend to travel from west to east. Coastlines that face east or south (in the Northern Hemisphere) or north (in the Southern Hemisphere) that are exposed to tropical storms and hurricanes can also be surfable on a consistent basis. When waves break along a section of coastline at an angle almost perpendicular to the land, these special locations, known as point breaks, can produce very long-lasting waves that can be surfed for several hundred meters. The two main types of waves for surfing apart from the pointbreak are the reef break (waves breaking over a coral reef or rockbed) and the beach break (waves breaking onto sand bars). The structure of the ocean floor is the biggest factor that determines the broad characteristics of waves at a particular break. For instance, there are beach breaks (soft sand bottom) that generate slower, mushy waves and reef breaks (coral reef or rock bottom) that tend to generate faster, more powerful waves. Based on the structure of the ocean floor, a location may break better on a particular tide, say, an incoming high tide or a low-low tide. Local wind conditions, water temperature, solar radiation, the crowd factor, hazardous aquatic life, water pollution, and aggression of local surfers are other factors that can have impact on the experience one might have surfing at a particular break. The availability of free model data from the NOAA has allowed the creation of several Surf forecasting websites. These automatically combine the above variables into a presentation of how good the surf will be. Popular surfing areasSurfing on a river in MunichSurfing is a global sport; one can find a surfer in almost every coastal nation in the world.
The west coast of the Americas tends to have better surfing areas than the east coast. While the continental shelf of the west coast drops off quickly, on the east it extends a great distance, creating drag and making smaller and less powerful waves.
The expression "Surf Nazi" appeared in the 1980s to describe territorial and authoritarian surfers. Other surfers, however, known as "soul surfers", hold less aggressive views towards others. These surfers see surfing as more than a sport; it is an opportunity to harness the waves in and to relax and forget about their daily routines. This type of surfing has seen a rise in popularity recently. Global warming, environmental damage, and increasing riparian development may continue to increase pressure on the sport. Global warming may produce bigger waves...or a return, through altering ocean currents, to a new ice age. Oil spills and toxic algae growth can threaten surfing regions. And, many wealthy homeowners have tried to prevent free access to beaches in violation of English and American common law traditions, in which "the strand" is not private property. Surfing cultureSee surf culture Surfing movies
Surf brands
Famous and notable surfers
This page about surfing includes information from a Wikipedia article. Additional articles about surfing News stories about surfing External links for surfing Videos for surfing Wikis about surfing Discussion Groups about surfing Blogs about surfing Images of surfing |
|
See surf culture. Occaisionally, the honden may enshrine more than one kami, or a composite kami, mother and child. And, many wealthy homeowners have tried to prevent free access to beaches in violation of English and American common law traditions, in which "the strand" is not private property. This may be a rock, a statue or (most commonly in recent shrines) a mirror. Oil spills and toxic algae growth can threaten surfing regions. At the heart of the honden is the goshintai (御神体, "honored god-body"), in which the kami is said to reside. Global warming may produce bigger waves...or a return, through altering ocean currents, to a new ice age. It usually resembles a small shrine building, complete with sloping roof, walls, and its own doors, which are usually kept closed except at religious festivals. Global warming, environmental damage, and increasing riparian development may continue to increase pressure on the sport. Physically, the honden is the heart of the shrine complex, connected to the rest of the shrine but usually raised above it, and protected from public access by its own fence. This type of surfing has seen a rise in popularity recently. This is usually closed to the general public; the priests themselves enter only to perform rituals. These surfers see surfing as more than a sport; it is an opportunity to harness the waves in and to relax and forget about their daily routines. In Shinto shrines, the honden (本殿, "main building") is the most sacred area, intended purely for the use of the kami. Other surfers, however, known as "soul surfers", hold less aggressive views towards others. The expression "Surf Nazi" appeared in the 1980s to describe territorial and authoritarian surfers. Many surfers are seen as territorial, hence the expression "locals only"; or as the rock group The Surf Punks put it, "my beach, my wave, my girl, so fuck you!". The west coast of the Americas tends to have better surfing areas than the east coast. Surfing is a global sport; one can find a surfer in almost every coastal nation in the world. These automatically combine the above variables into a presentation of how good the surf will be. The availability of free model data from the NOAA has allowed the creation of several Surf forecasting websites. Local wind conditions, water temperature, solar radiation, the crowd factor, hazardous aquatic life, water pollution, and aggression of local surfers are other factors that can have impact on the experience one might have surfing at a particular break. Based on the structure of the ocean floor, a location may break better on a particular tide, say, an incoming high tide or a low-low tide. For instance, there are beach breaks (soft sand bottom) that generate slower, mushy waves and reef breaks (coral reef or rock bottom) that tend to generate faster, more powerful waves. The structure of the ocean floor is the biggest factor that determines the broad characteristics of waves at a particular break. The two main types of waves for surfing apart from the pointbreak are the reef break (waves breaking over a coral reef or rockbed) and the beach break (waves breaking onto sand bars). When waves break along a section of coastline at an angle almost perpendicular to the land, these special locations, known as point breaks, can produce very long-lasting waves that can be surfed for several hundred meters. Coastlines that face east or south (in the Northern Hemisphere) or north (in the Southern Hemisphere) that are exposed to tropical storms and hurricanes can also be surfable on a consistent basis. In general, the western coast of any continent usually has better breaks since winds (and, therefore, waves) tend to travel from west to east. The swell window determines the potential of a break to receive waves. There are two primary factors that contribute to the general characteristics of waves at a particular break: (1) the "swell window" or the exposure of the location to wave-generating areas of fetch, and (2) the structure of the ocean floor (composition, shape). As waves near their ultimate destination (land), the bottom of the wave begins to run aground as the water becomes more shallow. To learn more about surf meteorology, see StormSurf's Tutorials. These waves use a drafting effect similar to race cars and cyclists to travel vast distances efficiently. Wind blown consistently over a large area of fetch, or open water, generates waves. Surfing conditions at a particular location or "break" that is known for surfing (see below) are almost never ideal. This spectacular activity is extremely popular with television crews, but because such waves rarely occur in heavily populated regions, and usually only a very long way out to sea on outer reefs, few spectators see such events directly. In many instances surfers would not survive the battering of the 'sets' (groups of waves together) without drowning. Jetskis not only allow surfers to ride these waves but allow them to survive 'wipeouts'. Some waves reach speeds of over 60 km/h; jetskis enable surfers to reach the speed of the wave thereby making them rideable. These waves were previously unrideable due to the speed at which they travel. A practice popularised in the 1990s has seen big wave surfing revolutionised, as surfers use jetskis to tow them out to a position where they can catch previously unrideable waves (See also: tow-in surfing). A non-competitive adventure activity involving riding the biggest waves possible (known as "rhino hunting") is also popular with some surfers. It is common to hear debate rage between purists of the sport, who still maintain the ideal of 'soul surfing', and surfers who engage in the competitive and, consequently, commercial side of the activity. Although competitive surfing has become an extremely popular and lucrative activity, both for its participants and its sponsors, the sport does not have its origins as a competitive pursuit. There is a professional surfing world championship series held annually at surf beaches around the world. Competitors are then judged according to how competently the wave is ridden, including the level of difficulty, as well as frequency, of maneuvers. Riders, competing in pairs or small groups, are allocated a certain amount of time to ride waves and display their prowess and mastery of the craft. Competitive surfing is a comparison sport. Most people only see the pros riding and miss (when televised) or ignore the time-consuming paddling out and waiting required to get a surfer into position. The drama of surfing obscures the sport's mundane aspects. However, such situations do not exist if the waves 'dump' or 'close-out', meaning that they break in large parts at a time. This is the holy grail of surfing, where the surfer maneuvers into a position where the wave curls over the top of them, forming a "tube" (or "barrel"), with the rider inside the cylindrical portion of the wave. Surfers' skills are tested not only in their ability to control their board in challenging conditions, but by their ability to execute various maneuvers such as the 'cutback' (turning back toward the breaking part of the wave), the 'floater' (riding on the top of the breaking curl of the wave), 'off the lip' (banking off the top of the wave), the 'aerial' (arcing through the air above the wave) and, if the surf conditions allow it, tuberiding. Surfing's appeal probably derives from an unusual confluence of elements: adrenaline, skill, and high paced maneuvering are set against a naturally unpredictable backdrop—an organic environment that is, by turns, graceful and serene, violent and formidable. In warmer climates swimsuits, surf trunks or boardshorts are worn; in cold water surfers can opt to wear wetsuits, booties, hoods, and gloves to protect them against lower water temperatures. Equipment used in surfing includes a leash (to keep a surfer's board from washing to shore after a 'wipeout', and to prevent it from hitting other surfers), surf wax and/or traction pads (to keep a surfers feet from slipping off the deck of the board), and "skegs" (also known as fins) which can either be permanently attached ("glassed-on") or interchangeable. Long Island is also a very popular spot for surfing. The sport has spread to most places where waves of sufficient size and shape appear, including Brazil, Costa Rica, France, Ireland, México, New Zealand, Norway, South Africa, and many island states including Barbados in the Caribbean and Tahiti in the Pacific. The sport exploded in popularity in the 1950s and 1960s, when cheaper, more maneuverable, and lighter boards made of fiberglass and foam became available and the teenaged baby boomers headed to the beach in droves to enjoy the maneuverability and stunts made possible by the new boards. Originally developed by Hawaiian islanders (see Ngaru), before the 15th century, "he'e nalu" spread in the early 20th century to the mainland USA and Australia, where heavy timber "plank" boards were ridden directly towards beaches. . Epoxy boards are stronger and lighter than traditional fiberglass boards. An emerging surf technology is an epoxy surfboard, made from a different material. Most modern surfboards are made of urethane foam (with one or more wooden strips or "stringers"), fiberglass cloth, and polyester resin. Surfing (Hawaiian: he‘e nalu, "wave-sliding") is a very popular recreational activity and sport in which individuals are propelled across the water by the force of waves, while standing on a flat, wide board. Dale Webster, northern California surfer who surfed over 10,000 days in a row. Bruce Gabreilson, founder of official high school surfing leagues and creator of Internet's first surfing site. Whitmore befriended filmmaker Bruce Brown and provided much assistance in the creation of Endless Summer 1 and 2. John Whitmore introduced surfboards to SA and pionered many advances in surfboards and techniques. Layne Beachley, Australia. Bethany Hamilton, Kauai and shark attack survivor. Rob Hooper. Shane Dorian. Sunny Garcia. Andy Irons, Kauai. Kelly Slater, Florida, considered one of the best surf competitors ever. Tom Curren, First dominant pro thruster surfer. Simon Anderson Australian, first to win competitions on thrusters. George Freeth. Bill Andrews, La Jolla Local http://adaywithba.com. Shaun Tomson, one of the last top pros of the single fin era. Pipeline. Gerry Lopez, Mr. Terry "TubeSteak" Tracy, The Original Big Kahoona http://www.tubesteak.org. SP. Jake Mattocks, Mr. Rell Sunn, Queen of Makaha, O‘ahu. Scott Bass Surfer Magazine online editor and pioneer of stand-paddle surfing. Australia, dominant surfer of the twin fin era. Mark Richards, Newcastle. Greg Noll, big wave pioneer, rode biggest wave of his era at Makaha. Greg Cipes, United States. Robbie Page, Australia. Keala Kennelly, Kauai. Bob Simmons, Initiated change in surfboards from flat logs to modern styles. Tom Blake, Early 20th century surf pioneer, added fins to surfboards. Laird Hamilton, Hawaii, California, Big wave Rider and tow-in surfing inventor. Duke Paoa Kahanamoku, olympian and Ambassador of Surfing. Rusty. Volcom. Oakley. Ezekiel. Reef. DaKine. Hurley. Roxy. O'Neill. Mambo. Quiksilver. Rip Curl. Billabong. Blue Horizon (2004). Riding Giants (2004). Step Into Liquid (2003). Blue Crush (2002). In God's Hands (1998). Endless Summer II (1994). Point Break (1991). Surf Nazis Must Die (1987). North Shore (1987). Apocalypse Now (1979) (scene with Robert Duvall, "Charlie don't surf!"). Big Wednesday (1978). Five Summer Stories (1972). Endless Summer (1966). Beach Blanket Bingo (1965). Beach Party (1963). Ride the Wild Surf (1964). Gidget (1959). The heart of Southern California, Hermosa Beach is a surf spot with extreme consistency and world class shape. Hermosa Beach
If categorised according to power and size, the East Coast is the premier surfing spot; an area known as the 'Soup Bowl' is of international significance in the surfing world. These reefs extend to completely surround Barbados' coastline, providing unlimited surfing conditions all around at almost any given day of the year. The most easterly of the Caribbean territories (ie closest to Cape Verde, Africa etc), the island's location far out in the Atlantic Ocean allows waves to travel thousands of kilometers on the bottom of the sea to finally unload all the power they developed during the long oceanic journey over Barbados' coral reefs. Barbados
The Southern and Eastern part of the Island have good breaks that don't get ridden that often. The North Coast has consisten overhead spectacular breaks prolonged months of the year. The West Coast in the Island has A-frame breaks, with international surfers coming every season for the taste of huge waves. Puerto Rico
Even areas along the Great Lakes get local windswells with fresh-water barrels. There are decent breaks all up the east coast, notably on Cape Cod. Don't surf there unless you are legit though, dropping in on a local can result in a beatdown. on a good swell. off the cliffwalk in Newport Rhode Island boasts one of the best pointbreaks in the entire U.S. Ruggles Ave. The Mid-Atlantic region includes popular spots such as North Carolina's Outer Banks, Long Island, Virginia Beach, Ocean City (Md.), and the Jersey Shore. The eastern central coast of Florida, particularly Brevard County, is renowned as the "small wave surfing capital of the world," and is home to such surfing luminaries as Kelly Slater, Todd Holland, and Matt Kechele. The North Shore is the epicenter of commercial surfing each fall as it hosts a series of contests that end the professional season at Pipeline. The North Shore of Oahu is home to perhaps the best stretch of surfing waves in the world, including Sunset Beach, Waimea Bay, and the world's most renowned and revered wave, "Pipeline" (or "Banzai Pipeline"), so named for the yawning chasms it regularly hurls over the heads of awe-struck surfers. Hawaii is probably the most famous surfing mecca that exists, every year thousands of surfers make the trip to pay respect to the birthplace of surfing. Open of Surfing. Each summer Huntington Beach is host to the U.S. This stretch of coastline is remarkable for the sheer number of consistently pleasant and surfable breaks. Southern California, from San Diego to above Santa Barbara, features outstanding beaches such as Windansea, Tourmaline Park, Ponto, Lunada Bay, Huntington Beach, San Onofre, and Rincon, and is where American surfing music and culture began to evolve. NorCal is home to one of the most revered and dangerous spots in the world, Mavericks. At the same time, there are many protected areas, primarily in Santa Cruz, that receive large swells but are blocked from northwest winds. While it is more exposed to wind and poor weather conditions than Southern California, it often will have large surf while SoCal will be flat. Northern California is known to receive some of the most consistent surf in the continental United States. United States
The Llyn Peninsula, north Wales. The Gower Peninsula near Swansea, Wales. Croyde Bay in North Devon. Fistral Beach in Newquay, Cornwall. United Kingdom
Mossel Bay. Jeffreys Bay. Elands Bay. Durban. Francis (Seal Point). Cape St. Amanzimtoti. Much of South Africa's coastline (just a few listed)
Bay of Plenty and East Coast, Mount Maunganui. Manu Bay and Whale Bay, Raglan. New Zealand
The Maharees - South West Ireland County Kerry. Ireland
Mainland – States of Sinaloa, Jalisco, Colima (home to Boca de Pascuales and its massive beachbreak), Michoacán (where rural surf towns abound), Guerrero, Oaxaca (where Puerto Escondido, the "Mexican Pipeline", is located), and Chiapas. Baja States of Baja California Norte and Baja California Sur; Several great breaks, the island of Todos Santos being the most famous. Mexico
San Gallan. Cerro Azul. Pico Alto (home to the Mavericks of South America). Cabo Blanco. Peru
Western Australia beaches Margaret River. Victorian beaches Jan Juc and Bells Beach where the annual Rip Curl Pro is held every year. Ocean beaches of Sydney, in particular Bondi Beach, North Narabeen and Dee Why. Gold Coast, Snapper Rocks and Burleigh Heads where many surf comps are held anually. Newcastle, where Surfest is held annually. Australia
|